Fw 190A-8 "Red 19" of 5./JG300 Ernst Schröder Gruppe Build (2 Viewers)

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Thanks guys.:)

Here is some more background info from Herr Ernst Schröder.

Red 19 ( WNr. 172733 ) was the regular aircraft of Uffz Ernst Schröder of 5./JG 300 from about August through to December 1944. Produced by Focke Wulf in Cottbus during May or June 1944 this machine was almost certainly not produced as a Fw 190A-8/R2 (the Sturmbock Rüstsatz) but in a six MG gun Jägerausführung or fighter variant…".. I would also have preferred to remove the outer MG 151/20 cannon but this was strictly prohibited ..". It was therefore not equipped with the Mk 108 3-cm cannon. A red Rotbraun 45 Reichsverteidigung fuselage band was applied to this machine during its 25-hour Check or Kontrolle. Rotbraun 45 red oxide primer paint was also applied to the bolts which attached the armoured ring to the front of the cowl.
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Schröder had a number of victories over P-51 Mustangs before the events of the 27 September 1944, the so-called 'Catastrophe at Kassel', the decimation of the 37 B-24 Liberators of the 445th BG, the highest one day loss of any bombardment group in the 8th Air Force. Flying in the third wave of attacking Sturm machines he shot down two 445th BG B-24 Liberators. These were his only Viermot victories. The following is extracted from his combat report, parts of which are reproduced in Bill Dewey's 'Kassel mission Reports' along with Schröder's assessment of the aerial battle.

"……In a short time, we saw a large group of B-24 Liberator bombers, at our altitude, like a swarm of mosquitoes, flying right in front of us, going in the same direction. The silhouettes very soon became bigger and bigger because of our great speed. Suddenly, several of these big ships began to burn and to plunge down with fire and smoke - even before we fired a single shot. A (Sturm) unit flying ahead of us had begun the attack. Immediately, the sky was full of parachutes and wreckage, and we were flying right into it. Even before I had covered the remaining distance to my bomber, it already was in flames as a result of my six guns. Both left engines... were burning. The airplane turned on its side and plunged. Also, the neighbouring machine was already smoking from a previous attack. I only needed to change aim to shoot again. Then this one showed bright flames…. I was so surprised and fascinated that I flew alongside my victim and stared at the metre-high flames that were pouring out of this Liberator, all the way back, beyond the elevator. Then this great machine clumsily laid itself over on its back and went down....."


"... In view of this surprising success, I naturally wanted to know precisely where my two opponents would fall. This was necessary because a double shoot-down of two four-engine bombers (they were my only ones) was for us in 1944 something exceptional. Therefore, I circled the crashing wreckage of my two adversaries in large, downward-running spirals. But my attention was hindered in a most horrible way, because the entire sky was filled with fliers in parachutes, and small and large chunks of airplane debris, which suddenly appeared in front of my wind-shield at my high diving speed of 600 to 700 kph. I truly had to close my eyes because I believed I would almost certainly hit something…"
 
I have a question that shows my noobness about painting. I have been using Tamyia paint for painting but I have switched to Modelmaster for this piece due to the RLM colors that Modelmaster puts out. I think Modelmaster might be by Testors, not sure.
When I begin painting the paint is perfect but the brush after a bit gets very gummed up. I haven't had this problem with Tamyia. What do I need to do to keep my brush fresh while I paint?? Thanks in advance.
 
I presume you are using acrylic paints Amsel? I tend not to use them, mainly for the very reason you have described, as they dry quickly. That is not to say that the paints are at fault, they are NOT - it's just me being used to enamel paints for 46 years! I would think that, to cure the problem, every now and then, clean your brush before continuing. I think this will be quite frequent with acrylics, due to their rapid drying time. You can probably do this with water, although a small amount of acrylic thinner, or Iso alchohol would be better. You may also need to add a small amount of thinner to the paint after a short time, if you have transfered it to some sort of pallet, in order to prevent it drying as it's used. I'm afraid I can't advise in detail, as my use of acrylics has been limited.
 
If you would Wayne that would be great! I am not comfortable with the Modelmaster line yet. I need to test it out on a less "public" project. Thanks for offering!
 
I think it is enamal. Someone just told me that you don't use water with enamels like you do acrylic.
 
Ah! If it is enamel, then they definitely WON'T mix with water! You need to wipe your brush as previously described, and clean it with either enamel thinners or White Spirit. Enamel paints are oil-based, and behave in a totally different manner to acrylics, which are basically either water-based, or water soluble, with an alchohol (or similar) base.
With enamels, do not overload the brush, and it is better to put a small amount of paint, ready to use, in some form of pallet - a jar lid or similar is ideal. Ensure that the paint, in the tin/bottle, is stirred THOROUGHLY before use, every time, in order to mix-in the pigments with the oil-based 'carrier'. Even when you have transferred a little to your pallet, give it another stir/mix, especially with matt paints, otherwise the matting agent in the latter will not mix-in properly, and you could end up with a patchy/streaky effect, and it may take longer to dry. You might find that enamel paints, especially if slightly thinned (with enamel thinners or White Spirit), will 'go further' than acrylics which, by their very nature, want to dry almost as soon as they are applied. This means that you have to 'lay off' the paint more - brush it out on the surface being painted, until it is apparent that more paint is needed on the brush. This will avoid a build-up of paint in any one area, and ensure even, smooth application and drying.
Brushes should be cleaned with either brush cleaner or, as I do, with White Spirit. Wipe off as much paint as possible, using a clean tissue or similar, then dip in White Spirit. Wipe again, to remove the bulk of the paint then, if neccessary, leave in white spirit for a minute or two, and repeat until clean. Dry the brush on tissue to remove any excess spirit, then store as normal, preferably vertical, tip up.
Hopefully, this will have helped. Sorry I can't be more specific at this stage, but I haven't used Model Master paints which are, as far as I have seen, enamels.
 
Ok Amsel, your back up plan...


My Tamiya mixes..

RLM 74 ( XF-24 Dk.Grey 3 Parts, XF-27 Black Green 2 Parts, XF-2 White 1 Part)

RLM 75 ( XF-24 Dk.Grey 1 Part, Khaki Drab 1 Part, XF-2 White 1 Part)

RLM 76 ( XF-23 Lt.Blue 1 Part, XF-66 Lt.Grey 2 Parts. XF-2 White 7 Parts)

Hope this helps if you need it.
 
any of you guys have EE's JG 300 book for the profile of Röte 19... ? Sorry no scanner at my disposal at this time
 
I have found these only. Source unknown.
 

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Looking very nice really.THX my Bro.. for posting !:D
 

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