Avenger II, 857 Squadron, FAA, HMS Indomitable, December 1944, Group Build.

**Wayne Little** · 05-17-2009 07:56 AM

Bl**dy good work Terry!

**Airframes** · 05-17-2009 11:05 AM

Thanks for changing the thread title Dan, and thanks for the compliments guys.
Yes Cory, I'd mentioned the centres of the roundels, which are the least of my 'worries' when it comes to re-painting and touch-up! There are four different types of decal or rub-down letters/numbers used for the codes, and each has to be adjusted in size or shape, then toned-down to the same, or similar shades, to get rid of the glaring white. Then there are somewhere in the region of 90+ stencils etc to be added!
Once this is done, I'll do little bit more weathering, then apply the matt clear coat, before painting the wing walk panels and other small details. Then it'll be time to do the surface weathering, including exhaust stains etc.
Only about another 30 hours to go!

**Catch22** · 05-17-2009 11:07 AM

**Maglar** · 05-17-2009 11:44 AM

I cant wait to see this load of metal get forked up onto its wheels, great work!

**Airframes** · 05-17-2009 04:04 PM

No need to blush Cory! Thanks Mag, I'm looking forward to that bit too!

**Wurger** · 05-17-2009 04:11 PM

Looking great.

**109ROAMING** · 05-17-2009 05:38 PM

Builds going faster than a bullet Terry! -Can you please clarify what these 'rub down letters/numbers' are? I've got a fair idea what they are but a little mistified how they work .They something like an upsidedown decal?

Look forward to the finish! can't believe your this quick

**Airframes** · 05-17-2009 06:14 PM

Daniel, the 'rub-down' letters etc are what used to be used in design studios and so on. The most common types are 'Letraset' and 'Blick'. The character is fixed on the backing of translucent plastic material. The letters are positioned over the desired area, held flat, then the face of the tranlucent plastic is rubbed with a stylus (a blunt pencil, end of a paint brush shank or similar will do), pressing down on the letter on the opposite side of the plastic, which is then transfered to the surface of the object being lettered. For modelling purposes, they can be useful when normal, waterslide decals can't be obtained, but they can be fiddly, and sometimes impossible, over certain curves and shapes.
This type of lettering shouldn't be confused with 'dry transfers', which work in a similar fashion, but are applied differently. The big advantage of the latter? No silvering, and easy fixing - once you get used to the positioning!
It seems a quickbuild, I'll admit, but It's now been three weeks, working at least 4 hours per day, often more than 12 hours!
I'm trying not to rush it, but there are other things I need to get on with, so, the sooner it's done, the sooner I'm free!

**109ROAMING** · 05-17-2009 08:12 PM

Thanks very much for the explanation Terry!

**Airframes** · 05-17-2009 08:32 PM

You're welcome mate.

**ccheese** · 05-17-2009 10:02 PM

Coming together nicely, Mate.... Good Job !

Charles

**Airframes** · 05-19-2009 12:26 AM

Oh @*&I%g *&%!$ and b*ll*cks!
Ever had the feeling you're in deep poo?
In the middle of a break from the tedious routine of applying loads of small stencils and individual serial number decals, I decided to see what the turret would look like in place, and had a go at dry-fitting it, first as a complete, although un-glued unit. As it seemed a bit tight, which is indicated in the instructions ( the AM ones anyway!), I tried just fitting the glazed dome in place.
Guess what - it seems too bl**dy big to fit!
After carefully manipulating it this way and that, all I achieved was to remove some of the paintwork from the framing. How the heck I'm going to get the complete unit in place, without cracking the canopy, I'll never know.
PICS 1 and 2 show the problem.
Oh well, that's something I'll have to contend with later, and hopefully, the only remedial work will be retouching the framework, if I can get at it, in such an awkward position.
So, some of the many stencils are in place, the roundels have been blanked out in the centres, and the codes are done, with a little tidying up required to get them looking right. The serial number was made up from the kit decals, and individul numbers from a Microscale sheet, and a little weathering and paint wear along panel joints etc has been added.
PICS 3 and 4 show the progress, such as it is.