![]() |
| |||||||
| #3 MTO/North Africa Group build number 3 |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| | #16 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: billingham nr middlesbrough uk
Posts: 3,634
| very nice choice
__________________ ![]() |
| | |
| | #17 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,277
| There is a lot of nice detail in the cockpit, and there's an option for a topside open canopy hatch that will actually let you see most of it. I'm still working on finishing the cockpit interior and highlighting details. The interior actually consists of 9 main pieces including a cockpit floor, rear cockpit bulkhead, a bomb bay door with flooring on the reverse side, an upper deck, two lower floor decks, two interior bulkheads and a ladder leading from the first floor to the second floor decking that ALL have to be fitted together before the fuselage is sealed up. And that doesn't count the seats, seat frames, control yolks, 2 sets of throttle and trim levers, rudder pedals, forward instrument panel, overhead instrument panel, radio station, support columns and a small platform that all get added to the cockpit. It's a gorgeous cockpit with some great detail. Trying to figure out to best handle the 26 windows on this bird! Terry had a suggestion for using liquid mask that I am considering. The windows are small and masking them individually would be a tedious task. There are a couple of small gaps around the main canopy - fuselage joint, but nothing extreme. There is also a minor fit issue with the rear wheel assembly - that simply required a bit of sanding and filing to get it to line up. The only major problem is with the engine cowling fit to the wings that I am still working out how best to address but that's the ONLY serious issue with the kit. Aside from the fit issues, one of the kit parts - a bomb bay door brace - was broken and half of the part was lost. I had to fabricate a replacement for that. Lots of pictures coming soon. |
| | |
| | #18 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,553
| Certainly looks and sounds a very detailed kit Dwight. Looking forward to seeing the interior built and painted - should look brill!
__________________ ![]() |
| | |
| | #19 |
| Senior Member | 26 windows? Cripes! I can't wait to see some pics!
__________________ Take arrows in your forehead, but never in your back. - Samurai maxim ![]() |
| | |
| | #20 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,277
| |
| | |
| | #21 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 7,678
| This is one is going to come up great! Great work so far man!
__________________ |
| | |
| | #22 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Live on the Oz West Coast - Perth
Posts: 803
| Dwight - I gotta say this is an interesting choice and the kit looks like it has lots of detail to keep you busy. Is that a turret on the top behind the cockpit, or a set of "My Favourite Martian" style Antennae? Cheers Peter
__________________ |
| | |
| | #23 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,277
| Quote:
That is indeed a turret, but I like the "My Favorite Martian" reference. Last edited by kgambit; 10-14-2009 at 01:40 PM. | |
| | |
| | #24 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,277
| The underside of the Sm 82 (in all three paint schemes shown in the first post) appears to be some sort of NMF (aluminum probably). The instructions call for a Silver underside but that seems too polished or perhaps bright is a better word. I've never done a NMF finish before so any tips anyone has (remember I am working with Acrylics here) would be helpful. I was planning on using Tamiya Flat Aluminum but not sure that is a good idea (and at least one person over at Fine Scale Forums thinks it's a BAD idea). A number of people suggested Talon Acrylic NM paints. Anyone ever used them? Last edited by kgambit; 10-14-2009 at 01:47 PM. |
| | |
| | #25 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Sth. Aust.
Posts: 14,820
| Quote:
...example of finish on my Ki-84...
__________________ ![]() | |
| | |
| | #26 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,277
| Wayne, that looks pretty close to what I am going for. What did you use for the paint / thinner ratio and psi? |
| | |
| | #27 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Sth. Aust.
Posts: 14,820
| Quote:
You may choose to do things a little differently....good luck mate!
__________________ ![]() | |
| | |
| | #28 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,277
| Quote:
| |
| | |
| | #29 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Sth. Aust.
Posts: 14,820
| Glad to be of service!
__________________ ![]() |
| | |
| | #30 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,277
| Had house guests this past week so progress on the kits was non-existant. All of the interior parts are painted and dry-fitted. Everything looks good so far on the fit. I've done about 90% of the detail painting to pick out interior details. The only thing that remains is to paint the leather cushions on the seats, and add them to the seat frames. Instrument panels are finished using the decals in the kit and I'm using a new set of Mike Grant's cockpit detail decals to add a couple of the instument gauges on the back instrument panel and the radio set where none were provided. Interior detail work should be finished this weekend and I'll start the assembly as well. Should have everything in place by the middle of this week. Once that's done, the windows get added to the fuselage halves and everything gets closed up. I managed to find a product called Micro-Mask which is AWESOME! I've tested it on a couple of the windows and it works great. It's blue liquid that you simply brush paint over the area you want to mask off. It you goof up, it clears up with water, and can be applied directly to plastic OR painted surfaces (even acrylics). I generally put two or three coats on as it tends to dry clearer than the wet liquid so two or three coats guarantees I've got what I want masked off AND by the third coat the dried mask is actually a clear blue which makes it easier to see what has been masked off. When it's dry, you can paint over it. Then when the paint dries simply tap a small piece of sticky masking tape over the painted mask and just pull the mask away. It doesn't pull the surrounding paint away at all unless you get really careless. Finished all of the work on the propellers and engine cowling interiiors. Propellors are painted gunmetal on the front of the blades, flat black on the backsides, with silver spinner hubs - and finished adding the fascia decals on the front of the blades and white stripping on the back of them. The engines are basically just gunmetal / burnt iron dry brushed in flat aluminum and the interioir of the engine cowlings (front is silver / back is gunmetal-burnt iron). The exterior of the engine cowlings will be prepainted using the camo brown and then masked off to add a ring of dark copper at the front of the cowling. The engine cowlings have been dry fit tested and there's no problems there. The only problem is with the piece that they mate to which is joined to the wing assembly. Have some gap issues there. Finished all of the wheel well assembly and landing gear detail work as well. Highlighted the cables and hydraulic / lubricant lines (black and rust brown respectively as per the walkthrough) inside the wheel wells which are painted flat aluminum. The struts themselves are painted silver with a couple of pieces overpainted with a diluted gunmetal to darken them up. The wheel wells are ready to be dropped into the lower wing halves and the wing assemblies should be finished this weekend. Pictures will be up in a few days. My wife took the digital camera this past week and she hasn't given me the camera back to download the pics from it yet. Last edited by kgambit; 10-26-2009 at 08:57 AM. |
| | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |