ADS NOT DISPLAYED TO REGISTERED USERS.
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Back to Basics

Building Questions, Tutorials and Guidebooks Discuss Back to Basics in the Modeling forums; First let me say that I have REALLY enjoyed this forum. I first ran across it about a year ago ...

  1. #1
    Senior Member hawkeye2an's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    St Joseph, Missouri
    Posts
    1,046
    Country
    United States

    Back to Basics

    First let me say that I have REALLY enjoyed this forum. I first ran across it about a year ago and didn't have a lot of time for it. I have now jumped in with both feet. I have also gotten back into Model building after about 15 year absence. These questions will sound simple to most of you, but I haven't found any of them in recent threads.

    1. What is the best filler putty? I used to used 3M bondo thinned with TUBE GLUE, when I mentioned this at my local club you'd have thought I was talking about 8-track tapes.

    2. What's the best masking product? Hate to sound like I'm favoring 3M but that is what I used to use also. I bought a new roll and tried it, I don't know if they changed their formula, but it was a disaster. The adhesive stayed on in the corners and I sent the whole thing into the strip tank.

    3. What's the best glue? I used to use lacquer thinner on small parts and tube glue on the BEEFY areas.

    4. What's the best material for vacuum forming replacement canopies. I used to use Squadron's thermo-form but that's not available any more.



    5. What are the best paints to use. I used to use Humbrol, but can't find them. I never had any luck with Acryls but that was a long time ago, have they gotten any better?

    Don't laugh at me I'M TRYING TO COME OUT OF THE STONE AGE, but I'm in Iowa and it's still a little cold here, if you know what I mean !!

  2. #2
    Senior Member lesofprimus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Long Island Native in Mississippi
    Posts
    19,141
    Country
    United States
    Dude, no laughing shall be heard, for I have decreed it so...

  3. #3
    Senior Member Wayne Little's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Adelaide Sth. Aust.
    Posts
    35,935
    Country
    Australia
    Quote Originally Posted by hawkeye2an View Post
    First let me say that I have REALLY enjoyed this forum. I first ran across it about a year ago and didn't have a lot of time for it. I have now jumped in with both feet. I have also gotten back into Model building after about 15 year absence. These questions will sound simple to most of you, but I haven't found any of them in recent threads.

    1. What is the best filler putty? I used to used 3M bondo thinned with TUBE GLUE, when I mentioned this at my local club you'd have thought I was talking about 8-track tapes.

    2. What's the best masking product? Hate to sound like I'm favoring 3M but that is what I used to use also. I bought a new roll and tried it, I don't know if they changed their formula, but it was a disaster. The adhesive stayed on in the corners and I sent the whole thing into the strip tank.

    3. What's the best glue? I used to use lacquer thinner on small parts and tube glue on the BEEFY areas.

    4. What's the best material for vacuum forming replacement canopies. I used to use Squadron's thermo-form but that's not available any more.

    5. What are the best paints to use. I used to use Humbrol, but can't find them. I never had any luck with Acryls but that was a long time ago, have they gotten any better?

    Don't laugh at me I'M TRYING TO COME OUT OF THE STONE AGE, but I'm in Iowa and it's still a little cold here, if you know what I mean !!
    No laughing here...Dan has a really BIG whip.....

    Most will have different methods and ideas and experience with all types of stuff so the answers should be varied.. my 2 cents worth..

    1. I use tamiya putty- real simple to use, also superglue as necessary.
    2. When i use it again Tamiya, their tape is good, it's low tack, doesn't leave any marks, not for me anyways...
    3.Tamiya Extra Thin, don't sniff it, sh!t stinks but it welds plastic together real well!
    4. Never done it ...Pass.
    5. I use Tamiya Acrylics, but this will be atougher one for you to decide on....there will be much comment on this one!!

    Good luck with your builds....There is no DUMB question! ask away......

  4. #4
    Benevolens Magister Airframes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    33,815
    Country
    United Kingdom
    Like most of us, I use what is best suited to the job, or available. The answere below are general, as products/brands might change, due to availablility/convenience/requirements.
    1. Milliput (2 part epoxy putty) for big jobs and moulding. Italeri tube putty, superglue and home made 'porridge' (varnish & talc mix.)
    2.Tamiya tape, as per Wayne. Sometimes, for 'rough' masking, ordinary car body masking tape.
    3. Humbrol and Revell tube cement, Revell 'Contacta' liquid cement, the same in the applicators with the nozzle, 'Plastic Weld' liquid cement for very fine work, superglue and PVA.
    4. Ordinary clear plastic sheet, various gauges, available from same sources as white plastic card. (have alkso used scrap packaging materials)/
    5.Humbrol and Xtracolour enamels. Occasionally, but rarely, Vallejo and Tamiys and Revell acrylics. Matt and semi matt varnishes made from Joihnson's Klear (Future) and Tamiya Flat Base mixed as required.
    And the only dumb question is the one you don't ask!!

  5. #5
    Senior Member r2800doublewasp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    310
    Country
    United States
    I also hav a few questions...what about that squadron putty? Is that good stuff.. Also, what about the orange tube testors glue? Is it good?

    Thanks Jack

  6. #6
    Senior Member Maglar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,534
    Country
    United States
    Jack, I've used the squadron putty and it worked nice except sometimes it shrinks a bit and leaves some of the seam / gap not totally filled in. I myself got tired of the stench and mess of putty so i've just switched to CA glue full time. Quick and efficient, but we all have our own methods.

  7. #7
    Senior Member r2800doublewasp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    310
    Country
    United States
    Thanks Maglar! what exacting is CA glue... i know you have used it in alot of your builds. Thanks Jack

  8. #8
    Senior Member Maglar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,534
    Country
    United States
    Well I bought this bottle but any CA 'gap filling' or the equivalent works. They even make thin ones for seams and such. I usually just squirt some onto a bottle cap then use a toothpick or pin needle and apply down the seam or into the gap. Wait a few minutes to dry then sand it off. Sometimes I have to repeat an area, but no biggie. I've also found that sometimes attaching the two pieces with CA will minimize the filling as the CA fills it in and the sanding process cleans it all up. Just make sure not to use it on pieces where you might need some 'play' room [wing halves, sometimes even fuselages!]

    Pro CA+ Glue 2 oz Medium (gpmgpmr6009) Great Planes Glue Cyanoacrylate (Instant Glue)

  9. #9
    Benevolens Magister Airframes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    33,815
    Country
    United Kingdom
    A bit of extra info Jack, in case that's what your question was. CA, or Cyanoacrylate glues, are commonly known as 'Superglue'. There are various brands, all much of a muchness, as well as a thicker gel-type, and super-thin varieties.

  10. #10
    Senior Member hawkeye2an's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    St Joseph, Missouri
    Posts
    1,046
    Country
    United States
    Thanks for all the help guys. I LOVE THIS FORUM !!

    A couple more that just came up:

    Do you use primer? and if so What?

    What do you use for clear coat? I have used Future for glossy, and Testors' Dullcoat. Are there any better?

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    1,719
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by hawkeye2an View Post
    Thanks for all the help guys. I LOVE THIS FORUM !!

    A couple more that just came up:

    Do you use primer? and if so What?

    What do you use for clear coat? I have used Future for glossy, and Testors' Dullcoat. Are there any better?
    Primer - no

    Clear coat - any of the following:
    For gloss coats: Future / Gunze gloss clear / Polly Scale gloss clear
    For matt coats: Future mixed with Tamiya flat base (3-1 for totally flat, 10-1 for Satin), Gunze Matt, Polly scale matt

    For your earlier qustions:
    1. Squadron white putty, CA glue or PVA around canopies. Depends on the application.
    2. Tamiya tape or MicroMask liquid mask
    3. Testors (the black container with the needle applicator), CA (fast and slow drying), PVA, Clear part adhesive or MicroKrystal Klear - depends on the application
    4. No idea - never do vacuforming
    5. Paint choice? Ohmigod - talk about opening a can of worms. I use acrylics exclusively and have used the following: Model Master Acryl, Polly Scale, Gunze, Tamiya, Vallejo and LifeColor. Of all of those my favs are Polly Scale and Lifecolor. Model Master Acryl is a hot button. The formula that Testors used has changed over time and according to some folks it doesn't always give reliably consistant airbrushing results. (Bad QC at the factory is the claim) I've not had any problems with it myself, but in some circles it is REALLY hated.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Maglar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,534
    Country
    United States
    Hawk, i've recently found myself using primer again just for seam and panel line checks. I must of wasted so much money on those little tins they sell from the model companies. Since you live in the states, run to the nearest home depot or walmart and look in the home decor for a primer can. For me, I went to walmart and bought the krylon gray primer can for $3. Nice big can with a rotating nozzle and it covers and applies beautifully. I'm starting to believe model company products are jacked up and not a necessity.. that also regards thinners!

  13. #13
    Senior Member hawkeye2an's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    St Joseph, Missouri
    Posts
    1,046
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by kgambit View Post
    Primer - no

    Clear coat - any of the following:
    For gloss coats: Future / Gunze gloss clear / Polly Scale gloss clear
    For matt coats: Future mixed with Tamiya flat base (3-1 for totally flat, 10-1 for Satin), Gunze Matt, Polly scale matt

    For your earlier qustions:
    1. Squadron white putty, CA glue or PVA around canopies. Depends on the application.
    2. Tamiya tape or MicroMask liquid mask
    3. Testors (the black container with the needle applicator), CA (fast and slow drying), PVA, Clear part adhesive or MicroKrystal Klear - depends on the application
    4. No idea - never do vacuforming
    5. Paint choice? Ohmigod - talk about opening a can of worms. I use acrylics exclusively and have used the following: Model Master Acryl, Polly Scale, Gunze, Tamiya, Vallejo and LifeColor. Of all of those my favs are Polly Scale and Lifecolor. Model Master Acryl is a hot button. The formula that Testors used has changed over time and according to some folks it doesn't always give reliably consistant airbrushing results. (Bad QC at the factory is the claim) I've not had any problems with it myself, but in some circles it is REALLY hated.
    What is PVA?

  14. #14
    Senior Member hawkeye2an's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    St Joseph, Missouri
    Posts
    1,046
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by Maglar View Post
    Hawk, i've recently found myself using primer again just for seam and panel line checks. I must of wasted so much money on those little tins they sell from the model companies. Since you live in the states, run to the nearest home depot or walmart and look in the home decor for a primer can. For me, I went to walmart and bought the krylon gray primer can for $3. Nice big can with a rotating nozzle and it covers and applies beautifully. I'm starting to believe model company products are jacked up and not a necessity.. that also regards thinners!
    I have been using the Krylon Fusion, a little more pricey but great adhesion and dries super fast !!

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    1,719
    Country
    United States
    Quote Originally Posted by hawkeye2an View Post
    What is PVA?
    Polyvinyl acetate aka White glue. Like Elmers. Can be used in place of Clear parts glue for canopies and similiar parts. I've heard of people uisng CA (super glue) on canopies as well BUT only if the canopy has been coated in Future first. Haven't tried that myself yet.
    Last edited by kgambit; 04-01-2010 at 01:16 PM.



+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Welcome Back All
    By FLYBOYJ in forum OFF-Topic / Misc.
    Replies: 49
    Last Post: 11-19-2008, 01:06 AM
  2. Back again
    By kiwimac in forum OFF-Topic / Misc.
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 11-29-2006, 02:49 PM
  3. I'm back
    By kiwimac in forum OFF-Topic / Misc.
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 10-12-2006, 01:08 AM
  4. I'm Back...
    By Bf109_g in forum Basic
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-11-2006, 11:35 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88