Modeling 101? - Aircraft of World War II

zuluecho · 11-20-2006, 04:18 PM

hi everyone.

i'm tryin my hand at building a model. its a Matchbox Lysander 1:72. From reading the threads i've gone n got myself an airbrush minus the compressed air bit (which i'm working on) but other than that, will everyone please post your tips & tricks to making a good model. Can be about anything really from glue to use to how to apply the paint, aging and other effects.

Thanks!!

loomaluftwaffe · 11-21-2006, 08:45 AM

For cement, i would recommend tamiya extra thin cement, the bottle is square and hard to knock down, it wont stick to your fingers as much and you wont have a hard time removing it, and it doesnt leave a mark on your model

it works by melting plastic, you unscrew it theres a really thin and tiny brush (looking like a needle) and you just touch the seam line of the model and let capillary action do the rest, the paint will flow through the seam and because it's extra thin, it'll dry quickle, costs u around a little more than 3 dollars

for the canopy make sure you mask it, if you dont have all the fancy tools like my, you get your tape out, cover the canopy with it and use your knife to cut around the glass panes so you can pull the tape out of the part to be painted, while the glass part is covered by tape and wont be touched by it. you can try using liquid masks but they dont make lines as straight, and it isnt such a Hassle unless you're masking a Ju-188 or a He-177

If your gonna paint the airframe of your model, i suggest you use enamel paints, they smell bad and take long to dry, but they dont leave brush strokes... once u get ur airbrush thats when to use acrylics or lacquer

for many more tips, navigate to the bottom of this site, you will learn practically everything you need... oh and by the way, wear a respirator, don't wear masks like you saw during the sars outbreak, they dont help, get something like sort of a scaled down military gas mask for spray painting...
this guy had to have lung surgery cause he had plastic in his lungs because of spraying paint without a respirator... and thats acrylic paint, imagine inhaling lots of lacquer or enamel

oh and BTW man, I'm still a nooby little 13 year old...

for masking, I'd recommend that tamiya tape, it doesnt remove paint as much and paint wont seep under the tape... use it when making a hard-edged camo

what IS ur airbrush anyways?

DerAdlerIstGelandet · 11-21-2006, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loomaluftwaffe

if you dont have all the fancy tools like my, you get your tape out, cover the canopy with it and use your knife to cut around the glass panes so you can pull the tape out of the part to be painted,

I would not recommend that, if you are not careful you will cut the glass that does not need to be painted and it will look like crap.

Vince57 · 11-21-2006, 09:01 PM

But modelling IS a careful job Der Adler, isn't it? I use this method on even thinner vacuformed canopies and sure sometimes you have to go very slowly; but taping makes best results I think.

About glue and canopies, I suggest using white glue (for wood or paper) for gluing canopies, cos it's a very friendly glue for clear parts; don't use cyanoacrylate glue which will leave white streaks when drying.

ndicki · 11-22-2006, 02:56 AM

A lot of canopies are engraved with inset panel lines - great stuff! All you need to do is bang on a bit of (clear) tape and whack a scalpel blade round - dead easy!

And yes, always fix these clear parts with white glue, never superglue or anything else which can attack the plastic.

loomaluftwaffe · 11-22-2006, 04:16 AM

yeah, the canopy will fog up looking like ice

DerAdlerIstGelandet · 11-22-2006, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince57

But modelling IS a careful job Der Adler, isn't it?

True...

zuluecho · 11-22-2006, 02:25 PM

thanks guys.. i guess i need to get some white glue and some extra thin cement. I went and purchased modeling glue of fleabay and i don't know if thats gonna be any good. airbrush + enamel paints also came off ebay. humbrol and some revell. wondering now if i did the right thing!?

btw never thought using an airbrush + paints could be that hazardous to ones health.

DerAdlerIstGelandet · 11-22-2006, 03:08 PM

Hey man ofcourse you did the right thing. There is no way you can go wrong, even if you mess it up. Just dont get discouraged and try again. Everyones first models dont turn out the way they want them to at first, but its the experience that counts. It is a fun hobby and very rewarding when you see your final project.

Keep trying and the more you model the better you will get.

I have modeled for years and I am still not at the level that some of these guys like ndicki and vince are at. I am no where near as good yet, but it is fun and I get better each time. Thats what you got to do. Dont give up, especially before you started.

ndicki · 11-22-2006, 03:27 PM

I'm not used to this, but Adler keeps saying things I find I agree with.

The main thing is to go into it knowing that brilliant results take experience - hands-on experience, not just advice from us lot - and that your first models will be perfectible. Just make sure you enjoy yourself.

Two things which will save blood, sweat and tears - dry runs (to see if things go together the way they're supposed to) and thought. Logic and testing take time but bring results.

DerAdlerIstGelandet · 11-22-2006, 03:35 PM

Take your time. Building a model is not a race.

Matt308 · 11-22-2006, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAdlerIstGelandet

Hey man ofcourse you did the right thing. There is no way you can go wrong, even if you mess it up. Just dont get discouraged and try again. Everyones first models dont turn out the way they want them to at first, but its the experience that counts. It is a fun hobby and very rewarding when you see your final project.

Keep trying and the more you model the better you will get.

I have modeled for years and I am still not at the level that some of these guys like ndicki and vince are at. I am no where near as good yet, but it is fun and I get better each time. Thats what you got to do. Dont give up, especially before you started.

And that my friend is the best advice you will get from anyone. Just keep at it.

DerAdlerIstGelandet · 11-23-2006, 03:14 AM

AW shucks guys, Yall are swell!

loomaluftwaffe · 11-23-2006, 06:24 AM

enamel is best for brush painting, for airbrushing i use acrylics
I'm too young to be handling lacquer paints though... and don't wanna affect the others

zuluecho · 11-27-2006, 09:17 AM

Really guys Thanks for all the info & support!!

but... but... umm.. you guys were right that first time around it can be a bit disasterous!

I decided not to make the Lysander (cuz i like it too much) but make a MS230 Morane Saulnier. It proved to be quite tough with too make little bits (but i guess thats where skills come in). Anyhow long story short yeah it was a good experience but me thinks i've destroyed it. here are the pics

11-20-2006, 04:18 PM	#1
zuluecho Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 46	Modeling 101? hi everyone. i'm tryin my hand at building a model. its a Matchbox Lysander 1:72. From reading the threads i've gone n got myself an airbrush minus the compressed air bit (which i'm working on) but other than that, will everyone please post your tips & tricks to making a good model. Can be about anything really from glue to use to how to apply the paint, aging and other effects. Thanks!! __________________ Check out my site for special galleries 'WWII; The German View' @ http://zeeat.spaces.live.com/

11-21-2006, 08:45 AM	#2
loomaluftwaffe Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,848	For cement, i would recommend tamiya extra thin cement, the bottle is square and hard to knock down, it wont stick to your fingers as much and you wont have a hard time removing it, and it doesnt leave a mark on your model it works by melting plastic, you unscrew it theres a really thin and tiny brush (looking like a needle) and you just touch the seam line of the model and let capillary action do the rest, the paint will flow through the seam and because it's extra thin, it'll dry quickle, costs u around a little more than 3 dollars for the canopy make sure you mask it, if you dont have all the fancy tools like my, you get your tape out, cover the canopy with it and use your knife to cut around the glass panes so you can pull the tape out of the part to be painted, while the glass part is covered by tape and wont be touched by it. you can try using liquid masks but they dont make lines as straight, and it isnt such a Hassle unless you're masking a Ju-188 or a He-177 If your gonna paint the airframe of your model, i suggest you use enamel paints, they smell bad and take long to dry, but they dont leave brush strokes... once u get ur airbrush thats when to use acrylics or lacquer for many more tips, navigate to the bottom of this site, you will learn practically everything you need... oh and by the way, wear a respirator, don't wear masks like you saw during the sars outbreak, they dont help, get something like sort of a scaled down military gas mask for spray painting... this guy had to have lung surgery cause he had plastic in his lungs because of spraying paint without a respirator... and thats acrylic paint, imagine inhaling lots of lacquer or enamel oh and BTW man, I'm still a nooby little 13 year old... for masking, I'd recommend that tamiya tape, it doesnt remove paint as much and paint wont seep under the tape... use it when making a hard-edged camo what IS ur airbrush anyways? __________________ "The German Luftwaffe always fought without any reserves. This is also the reason why we have pilots with extremely high numbers of victories." - General der Jagdflieger Adolf Galland" Last edited by loomaluftwaffe; 11-21-2006 at 08:49 AM.

11-21-2006, 09:01 PM	#4
Vince57 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: La Rochelle, France Posts: 106	But modelling IS a careful job Der Adler, isn't it? I use this method on even thinner vacuformed canopies and sure sometimes you have to go very slowly; but taping makes best results I think. About glue and canopies, I suggest using white glue (for wood or paper) for gluing canopies, cos it's a very friendly glue for clear parts; don't use cyanoacrylate glue which will leave white streaks when drying. __________________

11-22-2006, 02:56 AM	#5
ndicki Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 777	A lot of canopies are engraved with inset panel lines - great stuff! All you need to do is bang on a bit of (clear) tape and whack a scalpel blade round - dead easy! And yes, always fix these clear parts with white glue, never superglue or anything else which can attack the plastic. __________________ BATTLE OF FRANCE PROJECT for Combat Flight Simulator 3

11-22-2006, 04:16 AM	#6
loomaluftwaffe Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,848	yeah, the canopy will fog up looking like ice __________________ "The German Luftwaffe always fought without any reserves. This is also the reason why we have pilots with extremely high numbers of victories." - General der Jagdflieger Adolf Galland"

11-22-2006, 02:25 PM	#8
zuluecho Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 46	thanks guys.. i guess i need to get some white glue and some extra thin cement. I went and purchased modeling glue of fleabay and i don't know if thats gonna be any good. airbrush + enamel paints also came off ebay. humbrol and some revell. wondering now if i did the right thing!? btw never thought using an airbrush + paints could be that hazardous to ones health. __________________ Check out my site for special galleries 'WWII; The German View' @ http://zeeat.spaces.live.com/

11-22-2006, 03:08 PM	#9
DerAdlerIstGelandet Der Crewchief Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ansbach, Germany Posts: 33,152	Hey man ofcourse you did the right thing. There is no way you can go wrong, even if you mess it up. Just dont get discouraged and try again. Everyones first models dont turn out the way they want them to at first, but its the experience that counts. It is a fun hobby and very rewarding when you see your final project. Keep trying and the more you model the better you will get. I have modeled for years and I am still not at the level that some of these guys like ndicki and vince are at. I am no where near as good yet, but it is fun and I get better each time. Thats what you got to do. Dont give up, especially before you started. __________________ fly boy:"isnt that the first jet bomber becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"[/I]

11-22-2006, 03:27 PM	#10
ndicki Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 777	I'm not used to this, but Adler keeps saying things I find I agree with. The main thing is to go into it knowing that brilliant results take experience - hands-on experience, not just advice from us lot - and that your first models will be perfectible. Just make sure you enjoy yourself. Two things which will save blood, sweat and tears - dry runs (to see if things go together the way they're supposed to) and thought. Logic and testing take time but bring results. __________________ BATTLE OF FRANCE PROJECT for Combat Flight Simulator 3

11-22-2006, 03:35 PM	#11
DerAdlerIstGelandet Der Crewchief Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ansbach, Germany Posts: 33,152	Take your time. Building a model is not a race. __________________ fly boy:"isnt that the first jet bomber becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"[/I]

11-23-2006, 03:14 AM	#13
DerAdlerIstGelandet Der Crewchief Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Ansbach, Germany Posts: 33,152	AW shucks guys, Yall are swell! __________________ fly boy:"isnt that the first jet bomber becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"[/I]

11-23-2006, 06:24 AM	#14
loomaluftwaffe Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 1,848	enamel is best for brush painting, for airbrushing i use acrylics I'm too young to be handling lacquer paints though... and don't wanna affect the others __________________ "The German Luftwaffe always fought without any reserves. This is also the reason why we have pilots with extremely high numbers of victories." - General der Jagdflieger Adolf Galland"

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