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Old 11-07-2009, 07:03 PM   #16
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If you guys are so worried about getting caught in the make-up department, why not check out what you need online, and then send the missus off to do the shopping with a list, when you're bribing her with the new perfume or lipstick she wants so badly anyway?
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:34 PM   #17
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Doesn't bother me, Biker. My wife uses my tools and I use her girl stuff and scrapbooking pens. A true symbiotic relationship.

I like your sig by the way.
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:23 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by kgambit View Post
Or have your mom buy you some.

I've tried that approach with Squadron white putty using either Isopropyl alchohol or Nail polish remover and it's works exactly as advertised. With the Isopropyl alchohol you need to clean the excess off immediately, whereas with the Nail polish remover you have a little more wiggle room on timing.
Update:

Use this method with EXTREME caution. Nail Polish remover will, in some cases, attack the glue and SOFTEN the glue joints. I haven't had this problem before, but I just recently encountered this issue. The putty was standard Squadron white putty, the kit was Revell and the glue was Model Masters liquid cement. When I applied the putty and then used a cotton swab soaked in the nail polish remover to swab away the excess, I found that the joint (the vertical tail planes attached to the rear horizontal tail plane on the AR 240) softened up almost immediately and the joint had been dry for at least 24 hours. Fortunately there was no serious damage and everything worked out in the end but it sure threw me for a loop for a moment.

I don't know if you will have this problem with other styrene glues or not. I know that PVA and CA joints have been immune to this problem (at least in my experience so far.)

Last edited by kgambit; 11-23-2009 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:09 AM   #19
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This is good info to know, thanks fro the headsup.
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:23 PM   #20
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That's exactly the reason I don't use this method, and haven't commented on it before. Nail polish remover is designed to soften and remove the nail polish, which, generally, is a varnish, often of a cellulose base, by dissolving it. This means that plastics will also dissolve, or at least deform, if the polish remover is dense enough on a relatively small and concentrated area (such as a joint line) or left long enough.
It is probable that in most cases, on thicker plastic around, say, a fuselage joint, and where the material is removed very soon after application, that damage will not occur. But, if left just a little longer, some deformation and or loss of moulded detail should be expected.
I've actually used nail polish remover to make 'liquid plastic', for casting a small part, but only once, as the control over the process is minimal!
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Old 11-23-2009, 04:47 PM   #21
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That's exactly the reason I don't use this method, and haven't commented on it before. Nail polish remover is designed to soften and remove the nail polish, which, generally, is a varnish, often of a cellulose base, by dissolving it. This means that plastics will also dissolve, or at least deform, if the polish remover is dense enough on a relatively small and concentrated area (such as a joint line) or left long enough.
It is probable that in most cases, on thicker plastic around, say, a fuselage joint, and where the material is removed very soon after application, that damage will not occur. But, if left just a little longer, some deformation and or loss of moulded detail should be expected.
I've actually used nail polish remover to make 'liquid plastic', for casting a small part, but only once, as the control over the process is minimal!
Usually when I use the nail polish remover, I get the putty cleaned off asap and then wipe off any excess polish remover so I've never seen the plastic deformation. this latest case, the nail polish remover didn't attack the plastic at all - just the glue weld. But I'll definitely be careful with it in the future. Thanks for the info Terry.
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:14 PM   #22
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Good info guys - thanks for pointing out the limitations.

I use Proweld liquid glue on my seams and have not noticed any deterioration of the bond. The disclaimer on the site I posted does caution agains the use of full strength acetone as it wll soften the plastic. Cutex is supposedly diluted a bit so the claim is it won't affect styrene or resin.

Always a good idea to try this on some scraps before potentially sacrificing the fruits of your labours.
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:21 PM   #23
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So far I haven encounted any problems with nail polish remover for cleaning up putty. I use it sparingly though and keep the putty minimal on the model so it doesnt need a lot to clean it off.
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