 | Colour help.| Modeling Discuss Colour help. in the Current forums; One for you experts! I'm making the Italeri 1:48 P-40 and the underside colour is stated as ... |
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07-08-2008, 11:19 PM
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#1 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Adelaide
Posts: 3,658
Country: | Colour help. One for you experts! I'm making the Italeri 1:48 P-40 and the underside colour is stated as Navy Blue Grey (flat) with referance number ITA MM II - 2055. Can someone tell me the Humbrol equivalent for this colour? Thanks in advance.
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07-08-2008, 11:43 PM
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#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 4,615
Country: | Couldn't find an exact match,
however this gives an excellent comparison chart between humbrol and other brands for colours Paint Conversion Charts
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07-09-2008, 05:07 AM
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#3 | | Siggy Master
Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Poland
Posts: 7,170
Country: | Hi,
The number of the paint is one of the Model Master WWII US/United Kingdom set paint.Unfortunately there isn't mentioned the Humbrol equivalent for the paint in the Testors/ModelMaster list.But I have looked at some lists on my HDD and I think that it is a FS35189 colour which was used for Corsair painting as well.It seems that the best equivalent is Tamiya XF-18 US Navy Blue Grey or AeroMaster US BG.However, the Tamiya colour is much blue ( what seems to be the closest tonality of the paint) but AeroMaster paint is much grey.In my opinion both paints can be used because the real paint was very affected by weather conditions.Finally, the Humbrol equivalent for the Tamiya one is number 96 (RAF Blue) or number 79 (Matt Blue Grey) what is an equivalent of US M485 Blue Grey colour.Which one you will decide to go with it's up to you.
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07-09-2008, 06:39 AM
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#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 4,615
Country: | Just had a think and to be honest Im getting away using Humbrol 64 light grey for the underside of my RAAF spitfire and judging from my boxart on the P 40 it looks about the same.
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07-09-2008, 07:22 AM
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#5 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Adelaide
Posts: 3,658
Country: | Thanks for your help guys  I ended up going for Humbrol 166 Light aircraft grey the reason being I think it is a close match for Neutral grey which is what colour (along with Olive drab) I believe late war RAAF P40's were delivered in.
Again thanks for your help.
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07-09-2008, 09:24 AM
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#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Sth. Aust.
Posts: 5,642
Country: | That sounds about right mate!
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07-09-2008, 11:46 AM
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#7 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 4,615
Country: | Glad you got a colour sorted mate
Sounds like a good pick to me! Lets see this P 40 soon 
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07-10-2008, 04:55 AM
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#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 2,806
Country: | ditto alex wildcat!
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"Success is nothing more than taking advantage of an opportunity." - Hitman! - The Technical Guide for the Independent Contractor. |
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07-14-2008, 07:34 AM
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#9 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Adelaide
Posts: 3,658
Country: | Fella's need some more expert advice! How in the sh*t do you mask off a rounded surface such as the nose of a bomb??? My hands aren't steady enough to paint a circle freehand, so any advice would be appreciated!
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Last edited by Wildcat : 07-14-2008 at 07:36 AM.
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07-14-2008, 07:45 AM
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#10 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 4,615
Country: | Two ideas that I havent tried but thought of, get a hole punch and punch some circles out of masking tape and follow its line?
Or cut a circle of tape and make a slit into it half way and then make it into a cone and stick then paint along the edge.
However Wayne will come through with something better Im sure.
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07-14-2008, 07:55 AM
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#11 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Sth. Aust.
Posts: 5,642
Country: | With difficulty!!!
How close to the end do you need to go?
For some small curves I will lay some Tamiya masking tape down on my small glass pane grab a glass and a sharp knife and create a curved THIN strip.
I will hold it down inside the actual position required and then sort of lay it down out to the point I require and 'stretching' it into a tighter curve out to the point I want it to be.
Takes a bit of practice but it can be done.
Reverse the process to create for the tip, tape needs to be thin to stretch and curve it.
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07-14-2008, 08:01 AM
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#12 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Adelaide
Posts: 3,658
Country: | Hmm, thanks guys I'll give both suggestions a crack, however it could prove out of my league! I tell ya's how I go.
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07-14-2008, 08:04 AM
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#13 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Sth. Aust.
Posts: 5,642
Country: | Another alternative Iv'e heard of is to place the part in a drill on very low revs and use a fine brush....
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08-05-2008, 08:33 AM
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#14 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Adelaide
Posts: 3,658
Country: | Guy's I've got another question! When you have fully finished a model are you supposed to coat it with a clear varnish? Does this ensure the longetivity of the decals?? Thanks again for your help 
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08-05-2008, 08:49 AM
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#15 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Posts: 4,615
Country: | It can if its sprayed.
Brushing on a clear coat is not a good move mate, I've tried and it never really worked.
You could also use a decal setting solution while your fitting the decals and give a few coats to seal it. Thats more recommended when your actually fitting the decals as it could take them off when they are dry.
i guess what Im saying is spraying a clear coat is the only way. You can get a gloss clear coat from most Automotive stores for about 5bucks, i used that on my Korean Corsair worked well. You will want a flat varnish though I haven't seen any pressure pack cans for a matt finish unfortunately.
I dunno if I've been much help in the end Andy
*waits for Wayne*
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