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Is decal solution really worth it ?

Modeling Discuss Is decal solution really worth it ? in the Current forums; Dont thank me. Horse saw the requests before I could message, email or talk to him about it....


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Old 10-27-2006, 11:41 AM   #16
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Dont thank me. Horse saw the requests before I could message, email or talk to him about it.
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fly boy said: "isn't that the first jet bomber? becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"

"wait what ok who made the b-2 crash come on people that messed up its a b-2"

"ah yes the mistel those things are so annoying is games and in real life"
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Old 10-27-2006, 11:54 AM   #17
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Thanks, Horse!
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Old 10-27-2006, 12:08 PM   #18
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Alright guys, it looks like there will be a modeling section.
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Old 10-28-2006, 12:57 AM   #19
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Woohoo !

Eh... Ndicki, you were talking earlier about Japanese decals being of greater quality. Did you ever tried decals from Eagle Strike (made in Florida) ? I can assure you that the glue they use is way better than most of the decals supplied with the kits.

So far, I used them for three models and they didn't fell off (yet). But at $10.00 USD (plus shipping charges) by decal kits (generally there is more than one sheet in the package), it's quite expensive.

By the way, for the setting solution, is there a way for me to use it on older (that I already built) kits to prevent the decals from falling ? By using a brush to put some solution on the decals for example.
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Old 10-28-2006, 03:56 AM   #20
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I didn't say Jap decals were better quality - they generally aren't, in fact, because the carrier film is too thick and needs trimmimng off, and they have a problem with white areas. What I said is that they will stick unbudgeably to the varnish if you use setting solution, so you won't be able to move them round till they're in the right place.

Eagle Strike, Aeromaster, etc, are the creme de la creme! Expensive, as you say, but well worth it in the case of aircraft like ICM's, for example, where you can build a decent replica only to find yourself ruining it with rubbish stock decals. Also, I like to choose less common markings, and they can often help me along!

I've no idea about decals that are falling off... Perhaps it would work. Find an old kit you don't feel satisfied with, and try! That's the great advantage of the system I described, with the multiple layers of varnish - the decals can not fall off, as they are caught between the layers. Try it on your next one!
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Old 10-28-2006, 07:23 AM   #21
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I didn't say Jap decals were better quality - they generally aren't, in fact, because the carrier film is too thick and needs trimmimng off, and they have a problem with white areas.
I have noticed that, especially with the model that I am making right now.
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Classic ww2aircraft.net quotes:

fly boy said: "isn't that the first jet bomber? becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"

"wait what ok who made the b-2 crash come on people that messed up its a b-2"

"ah yes the mistel those things are so annoying is games and in real life"
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Old 10-28-2006, 07:35 AM   #22
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Which is? You may have mentioned it already, but my brain stopped working after I hit a certain age. Blackhawk?
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Old 10-28-2006, 01:45 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndicki View Post
I've no idea about decals that are falling off... Perhaps it would work. Find an old kit you don't feel satisfied with, and try! That's the great advantage of the system I described, with the multiple layers of varnish - the decals can not fall off, as they are caught between the layers. Try it on your next one!
Thanks, I will try it for sure.

A last question, with your system, do you put varnish everywhere on the plane (including clear parts) ? Because I never used varnish before... As I said, I'm still an apprentice.
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Old 10-28-2006, 02:25 PM   #24
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Everywhere EXCEPT clear parts, or areas which you want to have a different degree of shininess, such as tyres, exhausts, gun barrels (when they are long enough to matter - we're talking Hurricane IID length here), but otherwise, yes.

You've GOT to use an airbrush, don't forget - that really is the key between OK models and good ones.
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Old 10-28-2006, 02:59 PM   #25
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Okay, thanks a lot Ndicki.
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Old 10-28-2006, 04:05 PM   #26
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Forgot to say - best to cover the cockpit/interior over, or the varnish might build up and whiten.
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Old 10-29-2006, 02:54 PM   #27
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Yes ndicki a Blackhawk. When I am finished with my tribute to my Blackhawk days I am going to start building WW2 aircraft again. This one is just take quite some time, I have to make it as accurate as possible, so where things are missing, I am scratch building such as the cables for the passenger seats and so forth.
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Classic ww2aircraft.net quotes:

fly boy said: "isn't that the first jet bomber? becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"

"wait what ok who made the b-2 crash come on people that messed up its a b-2"

"ah yes the mistel those things are so annoying is games and in real life"
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Old 10-30-2006, 02:38 AM   #28
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At least you've got no shortage of information. That's usually a major stumbling block - I can't afford to spend twice the price of the model itself on books and docs...
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Old 10-30-2006, 02:42 PM   #29
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Yeah on this one I atleast have first hand knowledge of everything about it.
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Classic ww2aircraft.net quotes:

fly boy said: "isn't that the first jet bomber? becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"

"wait what ok who made the b-2 crash come on people that messed up its a b-2"

"ah yes the mistel those things are so annoying is games and in real life"
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:18 AM   #30
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Makes it easier and more difficult at the same time! You can't just ignore a bit of missing detail, or it'll nag at you every time you look at the finished model!
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