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Is decal solution really worth it ?

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Old 10-31-2006, 09:30 AM   #31
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That is true.
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fly boy said: "isn't that the first jet bomber? becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"

"wait what ok who made the b-2 crash come on people that messed up its a b-2"

"ah yes the mistel those things are so annoying is games and in real life"
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:24 PM   #32
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Okay, I bought some setting solution... In fact, it's a two-bottles combo by Micro Scale System. One is called Micro SET (which is also a decal remover) and the other Micro SOL (which is used to soften decals to apply on irregular surfaces).

I tried it and it seems to work well for falling off decals. Now may be I should try to varnish them before the decals start falling off again. What brand is the best?
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:35 AM   #33
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Gunze acrylic. It's not the cheapest, but there you are. (Tamiya varnish tends to 'powder' as you spray it, and can leave the surface grainy.) Dilute it with roughly 50:50 industrial alcohol to Tamiya Acrylic diluant, and cut the varnish till it is fluid enough to spray. That'll leave it shiny, so then, go over it with whatever enamel (better solidity) varnish you can find. I normally use Humbrol Mattcote, although as Airfix/Humbrol has just fallen through, I'M not sure what will be available in the future.
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Old 11-03-2006, 08:53 AM   #34
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What is the best thing to apply to the overall model to make the decals look more realistic rather than applied decals.

I used decal solution but I still can not get the quality that I want.
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Classic ww2aircraft.net quotes:

fly boy said: "isn't that the first jet bomber? becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"

"wait what ok who made the b-2 crash come on people that messed up its a b-2"

"ah yes the mistel those things are so annoying is games and in real life"
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:03 AM   #35
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That's the whole point - gloss varnish, decals with Micro Sol where necessary, gloss varnish, panel lining, final varnish - and they look as though they've been painted right on.
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Old 11-03-2006, 10:24 AM   #36
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Okay I am going to try that. Thanks.
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Classic ww2aircraft.net quotes:

fly boy said: "isn't that the first jet bomber? becasue i have flown one in a flight sim before and i know how it handles"

"wait what ok who made the b-2 crash come on people that messed up its a b-2"

"ah yes the mistel those things are so annoying is games and in real life"
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:47 AM   #37
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Can't remember if I'd posted this already - Revell 1/32nd - check out the markings - treated as described.
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File Type: jpg Revell_32nd_Bf109-g4.jpg (65.4 KB, 22 views)
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:01 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndicki View Post
Gunze acrylic. It's not the cheapest, but there you are. (Tamiya varnish tends to 'powder' as you spray it, and can leave the surface grainy.) Dilute it with roughly 50:50 industrial alcohol to Tamiya Acrylic diluant, and cut the varnish till it is fluid enough to spray. That'll leave it shiny, so then, go over it with whatever enamel (better solidity) varnish you can find. I normally use Humbrol Mattcote, although as Airfix/Humbrol has just fallen through, I'M not sure what will be available in the future.
Okay, thanks. I never heard of Gunze before... I hope I'll find it at the local hobby store. Otherwise I'll have to order it by mail and pay some extra money.

Just to make sure it is the right thing, is it what you were talking about ?
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Old 11-06-2006, 06:13 AM   #39
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No. Don't use spray cans - somewhere on this modelling forum that was covered; this is the stuff:

Squadron.com

Check out the other acrylic paints while you're there. But airbrush only!

Gunze Sangyo Paint

I don't know this shop, but it shows you the colour range.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:18 PM   #40
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I read the thread you are referring to, Ndicki. But I don't see what's the problem with spray cans... I used them a few times.

Of course, you can't do all of the painting with those cans, but I used the main colors as "font" colors. I mean, when I had an aircraft that had green and gray camo, I used a gray spray can to make the font color then I added the green "camo lines" with a standard brush.

But I'll follow your advice about the varnish.
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Old 11-07-2006, 12:36 AM   #41
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Well, up to you how you do it - but I still recommend an airbrush!
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Old 03-27-2007, 02:31 PM   #42
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It appears to me that you are able to finish your models in a flat realistic military finish and still show the panel lines perfectly. Is there more to this technique or have you laid it all out in previous posts?

You are one fantastic modeler.
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