I finally got the time to make another one
- this time a flying model!
This is what they look like when they are meant to be flown. This model, made in about an hour and a half, has no colors or designs in case it gets wrecked sooner than anticipated (one such airplane was doomed to land in the dog's water bowl after about 5 throws. When it dried up, the plane was warped to hell!
) The top pic shows just a plain uncolored A6M zero.
The bottom pic shows the zero at a different angle so that the "flap-erons" in the wings are visible. The book doesn't tell you to add these, but I think they're helpful in controlling the flight path of the model.
When the airplane wants to turn left, lower the left flap-eron to increase lift on that wing and vice-versa with the right wing. When both flapperons are trimmed correctly, a straight flight path is the result! Both flap-erons do not necessarily need to be bent the same angle to achieve a straight flight. A small note here: I call them "flap-erons" because they act more like flaps than ailerons and move down only. If used as ailerons, with one aileron up and the other down, the resulting twisting moment around the longitudinal axis will send the plane into a roll and (surprise!) dive into the ground.
Through trial and error, it's best if the elevator is left uncut. Simply bend the elevator up or down to change the rate of climb or dive. When both the flap-erons and elevator are trimmed correctly, flights of 30+ feet are possible-EASILY! (assuming there is not too much wind)
As for the rudder, I haven't experimented with it much. I've been getting good flights without any adjustments to it so I leave it uncut/unmodified as well. Still, it's not too late to try anything new!
These are my guideline for basic straight and level flight. Experimentation and creativity with the model can reward you with other unique flights. I've been able to make them fly in a loop to come back to me every time!
One more thing to note about the flying models is the extra reinforcement. You can't see it well in the pics, but the nose and wing leading edges have masking tape wrapped around it to prevent delamination of the paper layers if it hits something. Reinforcement is used only on the nose and wings since these points are more likely to delaminate/deform in a crash. If the model has a pointed nose, reinforcement with tape is much harder if not impractical, so it's dipped in glue instead.
Well, that wraps up everything about the flying models! I hope this is helps to whoever else builds these! I heard you were getting the book Ccheese- good luck!
Thanks and sorry for the lengthy post
! Like I said earlier, the ones I do fly don't have any paint job and also have control surfaces cut into the wings to aid in their flight characteristics. The longest straight flight I've ever got from one of them was about 40 feet in a 109 model! With an adjustment to the control surfaces and the right toss, I can make these do loops and come back to me every time (boomerang style!). I can honestly say that I would fly these paper ones over those 99 cent balsa gliders anytime!
)
Once again, thanks Wurger!
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