My Next Endeavour, Hasegawa's 1:32nd Fw 190D-9....

[Lucky13]

Need to wait two weeks then buddy, the book is in Glasgow and I'm in Sweden.... Any questions just let me know and I'll check the book...

Since you can probably soon buy a D-9 new, maaaaan it would an awesome sight with 4 Papagei Staffel D-9's flying again....

[lesofprimus]

Took some shots of the Photo Etch parts.... Never seen these things, let alone played with them, paint them or install them...

I got some emails out to our resident experts Wayne and Wojtek, but anyone else got some pointers/instructions on how to utilize them???

[tango35]

At first good choice to build a Dora, but why in gods name always this Papagaeinbirds. There were 750 in use.

Ok, my personal thoughts )

For the PE parts i think i would use only the half, e.g. at first you should install the round thing for the Luftansaugstutzen, and of course you should the interior stuff. for the loop antenna you can use - i would do it - aluminumfoil , and for the morane antenna you should take a wooden tooth stick an form it with a knife, cause in original most of this part was wood,too.

greets

Thomas

[Lucky13]

Introduction
Photoetched details are small pieces of steel, brass or copper, etched with various chemicals or burt with a laser (the latter can provide 3D parts, and are very realistic). Because plastic is fragile, it can not be made thin enough to represent chains, gun sights, etc. Photoetched details are used by just about all long-time modellers to ive a very realistis finish. The details themselve are no wonder, and proper use is required to give a good look.

Seperating
The photoetched details are attached to a fret, the same way the plastic is attached to the sprue. The best way to cut them lose is to use a rounded knife blade (I use a no. 10 blade). They must be cut on a hard surface, such as a steel or glass plate, or a cheramic tile, or else they will bend. First, cut about 0.5 mm. from the part, and the remove the remaining fret with a pin file or knife.

Bending

Drawing explaining how to get sharp edges while bending photo etched parts Photoetched details often need to be bended, in order to give the appearence of crates, fastening clips, etc. Because the metal is so thin, repeated bending will cause the metal to break. Especially steel will easily break. Heating the piece with a flame first will make the part softer, thus making it possible to bend the part more, but will also make it more likely to bend in the wrong place. Obviously, the heating should be done carefully, so as to not melt the metal.

To bend a part correctly is probably the hardest thing about photoetched details. The best way to do it is to place the part on the edge of your steel plate/glass plate/cheramic tile, place one straight (no. 11) scalpel blade or the blade from a stanley knife on top of one side of the photoetched part (with the sharp edge of the blade along the line that need to be bended), and another no. 11 or stanley knife blade under the other side in the same manner. Then, lift the lower blade to the required angle, while holding upper blade steady. This should give you a sharp edge.

Attaching
When attaching the part, it must be completely free of grease and smudge, so whas it in a small dish (preferred over a bowl or cup, as the parts can be handeled better) with some whasing detergent.

As for glue, there are two types of glue you can use: Cyanoacrylate glue (superglue), or epoxy glue (5 minute is best). The cyanoacrylate glue has different thicknesses, from gel to water-like. The epoxy glue is a two component glue, which must be blended (use gloves) before use, and then applied. Only blend as much as you will need at a time. Is has, as opposed to superglue, no 'bite' on plastic, thus giving a weaker bond (the bond will rarely be stressed, though, so this is unimportant). I find it hard to apply a small amount of this glue, but for very smal and complex parts, it is good, as it is sticky enough to hold the part in place, but it will not glue your fingers to the model. For a thinner consistense you can thin the epoxy glue with water.

The superglue is used directly from the container (although it is better to take a little out on a piece of scrap plastic), and applyed with a toothpick, a piece of this copper wire or (the moethod I prefer) a piece of streched sprue. Only aply the amount of a needle head at a time, or you will not be able to control the part. I prefer the thin type, as it can be applyed while the two parts are held together, after which the glue will run into all the small cracks.

Painting
Painting the photoetched details is done as painting the rest of your model. It might be a good idea to use a primer, but it is not essential.

To find out which methods you like the best, buy an inexpensive photoetched kit, and try it on an old model. After a model or two, you will wonder how you could ever do without photo etch.

[Lucky13]

http://www.kcamps.org/articles/How%2...oto%20Etch.pdf

Photo Etched Parts Tools 'N Tips

[lesofprimus]

but why in gods name always this Papagaeinbirds.

Cause it seems from what I can see on the internet that the Dortenmann crates are waaaaaaay more publicized and popular for builds.... The Sachsenberg Staffle crates seem to be the less popular....

And besides, I dont have to spend 15 more bucks to get new decals...

And I want to impress Wuger and Wayne....

And myself...

Piss on all u other turds....

[Catch22]

Hahaha. It's your model Les!

[lesofprimus]

Just jokin around Catch...

[Lucky13]

Hmmmm....seems a bit wet here....smells bad too...

[Catch22]

Originally Posted by lesofprimus

Just jokin around Catch...

I know haha.

Except Lucky's right. IT DOES seem kinda smelly...

[lesofprimus]

Thanks for those 2 links Lucky, very helpful to someone whose never seen PE before...

[Lucky13]

Anytime buddy, anytime!

[Wayne Little]

Couple of good etch links there Lucky , well done mate!

[lesofprimus]

While basically informative, now that Ive gotten into the meat with this Photo Etch gimmick, those sites are very vauge....

As the pics will tell below, I am waaaay over my head here with no REAL directions on where to go..... Questions abound gents...

1. The original dashboard is what Im supposed to crazy glue the pieces to.... Is it supposed to be the raised gauges dash in the model kit??? Its not a flat surface....

2. Im lost on the construction of this.... In my mind, what I interpet the process is:

Paint the gauges on the original plastic, white and red for the different guages, according to historical accuracy... Where do I get a color shot of this historical accuracy???
Then, after it dries, paint it over in gloss acrylic let dry.... Then go back and spray the original plastic dask with RLM66 enamel, let partially dry, then lightly wipe with thinner on the raised edges of the painted gauges, letting them "peek out" from under the RLM66...

Now I put on the clear plastic film that came with the PE kit... I cut them out for each row of gauges....

I glue this to the painted plastic dash panel?????

I then take the painted RLM66 PE dash piece and glue this onto the glued on film??? Im lost on this phase....
The PE panels should be painted in 2 different colors??? RLM66 is what the whole dash panel should be, but what should the etched parts be??? The etched areas are the areas around the gauge holes correct??
So I paint the whole PE piece 66, then spary it with gloss varnish to seal it, then come back and spray a different color over it, wipe it down with a wet cloth to leave just the gauge area colored with the second color???
Should I use black for the gauge holes???

I then take the painted individual gauge "covers" and glue those into the gauge holes on the first piece of PE, or should those be glued onto the main PE dash piece and then painted with the 2 overlapping colors??? Doesnt crazy glue leave a colored residue??? Im lost................

3. Ive noticed that there is a huge "gap" when looking at the side of the plastic dashboard between the film and plastic... Is this correct????

Look at the pics and u'll see what Im talkin about...

Some very experienced detailed help is need here guys.... I almost dont want to screw with this PE dashboard....

[Wayne Little]

Dan if you use the etch and the clear plastic with dials you need to remove all the raised detail for a flat surface to adhere to.

Personally I prefer to use the original plastic and paint the raised details, but that's just me.....Check your e-mail for some incoming info!