Stuff you wish someone had told you as a rookie!

[seiseki]

Hi!
I've recently gotten into scale modeling and I'm currently building a 1:48 A6M3 Zero, but I also have an unfinished 1:48 Sopwith Camel lying around.



I'm curious about what stuff you wish someone had told or taught you about.
So, let the advice flow, it can be anything from tools, techniques, materials etc.

I can start with one thing I've experienced so far.

1. If you have cats, don't let model parts lie around on your workbench for too long, or you might find that they're completely gone when you need them.
Like the engine cover for my Sopwith Camel.. >.<

[vikingBerserker]

Children too

The one thing I really wished I had been told was to take my time.

[Wurger]

Also wives... they are of a bad feature of coming and disturbing when modelling.

[Lucky13]

Nooo kidding!?

[T Bolt]

I think the single biggest thing I learned along the way was the proper way to do decals. Paint, Future gloss coat, decals, more Future to seal the decals, and then Dullcoat. Made a world of difference in my modeling.

[seiseki]

I think the single biggest thing I learned along the way was the proper way to do decals. Paint, Future gloss coat, decals, more Future to seal the decals, and then Dullcoat. Made a world of difference in my modeling.

I haven't gotten to the part with decals yet, but whats so special about them?
What difference does the gloss coat make?

[N4521U]

I haven't gotten to the part with decals yet, but whats so special about them?
What difference does the gloss coat make?

They need a smooth "non-porous" surface to lay flat to. I'ts Future floor polish. Apply it with an artists "fan" type synthetic bristle brush. Not a real dense one about 1/2 -3/4" across. Very light coat applied evenly, you don't want it to puddle when applied or it will dry in dark spots. So pull it around as you apply it. The use one of them girly eye shadow applicators to apply decal solvent to soften the decal and allow you to position them "exactly" where you want them. Nothing looks worse than milky white decals!

[seiseki]

ah, thanks for the info!

Decal solvent, do I apply that after I've placed the decal on the model?

[N4521U]

ah, thanks for the info!

Decal solvent, do I apply that after I've placed the decal on the model?

Wet the decal on the sheet, one at a time, slide the decal off the backing paper onto the model surface. While still wet, dip the dauber into the solvent, and gently wet the top surface with the solvent. You can slide the decal around the surface like this. The decal will "soften" a bit, it can tear easily now so be gentle. When it is in place, make sure everything is level or it may move on its own. Squeeze out the dauber, then pat off some of the liquid, but Not till dry. The decal will conform to most dips and undulations. Liquid will evaporate and the decal will be solid in place. A little more future over the decal when dry will lock it in place. Practice one somewhere. The steps are easy and flow nicely together. Easy peasy.

[mikewint]

Amen, on the decal info, I'm a long way from a rookie but none of this as around when I started so I'm learning ll this stuff too. do it right and the "decal" won't look like a decal, it will look like paint.
Other than that, learning to use an airbrush makes a world of difference in your models appearence

[seiseki]

Went to my local scale modeling hobby store and bought two bottles of something that the clerk said were used for decals..
Something called 'micro set' and 'micro sol'..

I'm sure getting that floor polish would have been cheaper but I'm lazy..

So what are the actual hard parts of modeling, where do most people screw up?
I haven't finished a model yet so I'm kinda curious.
The only thing that worries me at the moment is if scratches from sanding will show up after painting and I'm also scared of painting over the panel lines..

[Thorlifter]

If you have glue on your fingers, don't touch the clear parts

[Wurger]

Micro Set and Micro Sol liquids allow to apply decals fitting them to a surface. However using of these liquids doesn't mean a painted matt surface will let them settle down correctly. The effect of incorrect applying is called "silvering" because these decal areas of the clear background seem to be more matt and "milky" than the painted matt surface. Therefore we use clear coat for making a surface smooth and more solid.

Sanding is one of the most annoying works on models for most of people. But it is not as frustrating as it seems. For major sanding should be used sandpaper of 600-800 grade. Then one of 1200-1500 grade. Also it is better if the sandpaper can be used for wet sanding ( with water). Following the way lets get a smooth matt surface without any scratches clearly seen. The next step is the re-freshing of all panel lines and rivet ones.
The final work starts with gentle sanding with sandpaper of 2000 grade and removing of all dirt and dust with a brush of soft hairs. Then polishing with soft rag, toothpaste or other compounds for polishing. Personally I use common newspaper. When all is made properly scratches aren't seen at all. However all metalizers and silver ( aluminium ) paints make them noticable. That's why we have to use primers additionally.

[JohnAnthony]

Start practicing your skills on cheap kits. You can learn from your mistakes on a $10 kit just as well as on a $50 kit. Save the expensive stuff for when you know what you're doing. (Unless you're rich of course, in which case...nevermind.)

[mikewint]

Rather than sandpaper, i use fingernail (emery) boards. they come in various "grits" much like sandpaper and they are fairly rigid. There are also very fine foam "boards" for buffing or shining the nails