The Guns We Own

[javlin]

For others that may not have noticed, please observe that the magazine in the FN-49 isn't stock. The stock one is a non-detachable rounded box holding only 10 rounds. I have seen details about a conversion to use BAR magazines and mag does look like one from a BAR

From what I understand this was the only contract FN did like this for the Argentine Navy and the only one in .308 and a detachable mag.The FN was either a 30-06 or as Ivan mentioned in 8mm.Now some Venezula rifles were done in 7mm but I can not remember if there armory did it or not?I have not heard that about the pin Ivan all I can say is I am tougher on that rifle than my M1a or any other for that matter and she has never never hiccupped.Do not worry Ivan about the 10" barrel all one has to do is go through local PD for a sign. and the paperwork to the ATF with a $200 check.Cheers Kevin

[Amsel]

Originally Posted by Soren

The Lee Enfield is really nice to shoot, it has a very mild kick and good accuracy, a great rifle. Also it's got an unusually smooth bolt operation.

My grandpa(who is a Marine veteran of the PTO and is still living) swears by the .303. He builds rifles using the Enfield action as well as the Mauser. But his preference for many years has been the .303 and has brought down many large game in the Rockies using this cartridge. As a matter in fact this year will be his last hunt he says, after all he was born in 1922.

[MacArther]

The Lee Enfield is really nice to shoot, it has a very mild kick and good accuracy, a great rifle. Also it's got an unusually smooth bolt operation.

All true, unless you're using the Jungle carbine (like I was). It had a rubber but plate just to absorb some of the recoil, and I could never get 2 rounds even close together even when I aimed at the previous impact.

[drgondog]

Originally Posted by MacArther

All true, unless you're using the Jungle carbine (like I was). It had a rubber but plate just to absorb some of the recoil, and I could never get 2 rounds even close together even when I aimed at the previous impact.

I have owned several Mk III and IV in my younger days. Good cartridge. The two piece stock was always a problem in obtaining the kind of accuracy I wanted.

[Matt308]

Yeah, but that sound of shucking rounds is exquisite. And for a battle rifle she's plenty accurate.

[Ivan1GFP]

Hello Javlin,
If you already know about NFA guns and the paperwork to get them registered, that's great. A suggestion about the Thompson though. You might want to consider modifying the magazine catch to take USGI stick magazines. I believe this is a better option than modifying each magazine. The depth of the semi-auto receiver is not as great as the full-auto version and puts the magazine about 1/8 inch lower. Folks often just elongate the magazines' holes, but I believe this is not the best way. (Then again, you probably already know this!)

Regarding FN-49's, I personally have fired the 7.92, .30-06, and the 7 mm AND one converted to fire .308 Winchester with a 2-groove Springfield barrel turned down. The 7 mm was made by FN and not a conversion. They also made 7.65 Mauser and probably a few others but not in great quantities.

- Ivan.

[Ivan1GFP]

Regarding Lee Enfield accuracy:
These rifles if set up properly are no less acurrate than the M1 Garand. I personally have shot 1.5 inch 5 shot groups with the rather poor open sights on a No.1 Mk.III*. Unfortunately I didn't do any better with the better sights on No.4.

The military tends to set up these guns with fairly long headspace. IMHO this is not good on a target gun, especially with a flexible receiver as on these guns.

On the No.4 the bolt heads are replaceable. They come in sizes marked 0,1,2,3. Do not buy a rifle that already has a 3 bolt head unless you can verify the headspace is tight. There are a couple ways to "regulate" this rifle. See the attachment for the method used by the Canadians.

On the No.1 Mk.III and Mk.III* (* only means the magazine cutoff was deleted), the barrel should NOT contact the muzzle cap. There is a spring that holds a barrel loop not visible unless the guns is disassembled. There is a screw head underneath the rifle that tensions this spring. This spring is fairly crucial to accuracy on this gun and the gun won't shoot if the spring has taken a set. The spring can be replaced with a small piece off of a M1 Garand recoil spring if necessary. The bolts heads aren't numbered, but perhaps a combination can be found with replacement parts to correct headspace if needed.

Hope this helps someone out there.
- Ivan.

[MacArther]

This is the Lee Enfield I was talking about. Even according to historical reports, the zeroing of the rifle shifted from day to day, and usually without weather or outside cause. On a side note, my friend is going to let me shoot the accurized version of the Mosin Nagant (can't remember which nation made them), that he is thinking about putting on a Russian scope from the period.

[javlin]

Originally Posted by MacArther

This is the Lee Enfield I was talking about. Even according to historical reports, the zeroing of the rifle shifted from day to day, and usually without weather or outside cause. On a side note, my friend is going to let me shoot the accurized version of the Mosin Nagant (can't remember which nation made them), that he is thinking about putting on a Russian scope from the period.

The Mosant Nagant is Russian and you guys are probably going to be shooting the long rifle 91/30 and not the carbine version.The 91/30's were the one's usually outfitted with the scope and get ready kicks like a mule.I might of put all of 30rds through mine in 5yrs.

[Ivan1GFP]

Could be a Finnish M27 or M28 Mosin Nagant.

- Ivan.

[Ivan1GFP]

Regarding the cost of reloading:

It really depends on the kind of gun you are reloading for and how much labor you are willing to put into it. The more money you spend on equipment, the less labor you put in.

For loading handgun rounds (straight wall cases), a 3 die set with a carbide sizer will cost about $40 or $50 these days. A simple press like the "Lee Hand Press" may cost about $25 or $30. A press mounted priming tool may be about $15. A good scale will probably cost about $50 minimum. (I suggest buying a good electronic scale which will cost more.) A Lee "Perfect" powder measure is about $25 or so. That covers the basic equipment needed.

For rifles, it depends seriously on what kind of rifle you are reloading for. Some guns like the H&K G3 and the Tokarev SVT-40 are just not worth reloading for. Bolt action rifles are generally pretty easy. A simple neck sizing die will do for a while (I recommend the Lee Collet Die set). For a semi-auto, you will need a full length sizer and a RCBS Precision Mic headspace gauge. A lot of folks just use the full length sizer and create a headspace problem on a gun that is in spec. A case trimmer is also rather useful for a rifle. The Lee version is inexpensive but I prefer a bench mounted type. If you are trimming cases, you will also need a deburring tool. The Lee version is about $4. The RCBS version is about $10. I forget the brand of the version I use but it is about $20. Also useful is a primer pocket reamer to clean out residue and to uniform the depth. A carbide version (necessary because steel wears out quickly) cost me about $30. I forget what the flash hole uniformer cost me (probably about $15 or so).

These days, I use a Dillon 550B press (about $500) even when I am resizing rifle cases. I only need to handle each case once and the cases end up more precise (in my experience) than if I process them through a RCBS Rock Chucker press (about $100). I actually use TWO Dillon 550Bs because I got tired of changing back and forth from large to small primers.

As you can see, it all adds up quickly.
- Ivan.

[MacArther]

Could be a Finnish M27 or M28 Mosin Nagant.

I'm pretty sure its one of those.

[renrich]

Ivan, I enjoyed your post about handloading. Brings back old fond memories. One point about handloading. Often, one can work up loads that are more accurate in one's individual rifle than factory loads will be. There are a lot of premium factory loads around now when 40 or so years ago there were very few. I still believe that a well worked up handload often will surpass the accuracy of even premium factory loads and one will save money in the long run.

[drgondog]

Originally Posted by Ivan1GFP

Regarding Lee Enfield accuracy:
These rifles if set up properly are no less acurrate than the M1 Garand. I personally have shot 1.5 inch 5 shot groups with the rather poor open sights on a No.1 Mk.III*. Unfortunately I didn't do any better with the better sights on No.4.

The military tends to set up these guns with fairly long headspace. IMHO this is not good on a target gun, especially with a flexible receiver as on these guns.

On the No.4 the bolt heads are replaceable. They come in sizes marked 0,1,2,3. Do not buy a rifle that already has a 3 bolt head unless you can verify the headspace is tight. There are a couple ways to "regulate" this rifle. See the attachment for the method used by the Canadians.

On the No.1 Mk.III and Mk.III* (* only means the magazine cutoff was deleted), the barrel should NOT contact the muzzle cap. There is a spring that holds a barrel loop not visible unless the guns is disassembled. There is a screw head underneath the rifle that tensions this spring. This spring is fairly crucial to accuracy on this gun and the gun won't shoot if the spring has taken a set. The spring can be replaced with a small piece off of a M1 Garand recoil spring if necessary. The bolts heads aren't numbered, but perhaps a combination can be found with replacement parts to correct headspace if needed.

Hope this helps someone out there.
- Ivan.

It would have been useful forty years ago. For my purposes the Mauser/FN or M70 or R/700 or M77 suit me a lot better for sporting uses. In retrospect the ones I had probably had those with a minimum of 20,000 rounds fire through them.

[drgondog]

Originally Posted by Ivan1GFP

Regarding the cost of reloading:

It really depends on the kind of gun you are reloading for and how much labor you are willing to put into it. The more money you spend on equipment, the less labor you put in.

For loading handgun rounds (straight wall cases), a 3 die set with a carbide sizer will cost about $40 or $50 these days.
EBay a great place to beat those prices by 1/2 if your'e patient

A simple press like the "Lee Hand Press" may cost about $25 or $30. A press mounted priming tool may be about $15. A good scale will probably cost about $50 minimum. (I suggest buying a good electronic scale which will cost more.) A Lee "Perfect" powder measure is about $25 or so. That covers the basic equipment needed.

Ditto on eBay - I got my RCBS electronic measure for about $60 - although that would be difficult now.

For rifles, it depends seriously on what kind of rifle you are reloading for. Some guns like the H&K G3 and the Tokarev SVT-40 are just not worth reloading for. Bolt action rifles are generally pretty easy. A simple neck sizing die will do for a while (I recommend the Lee Collet Die set). For a semi-auto, you will need a full length sizer and a RCBS Precision Mic headspace gauge. A lot of folks just use the full length sizer and create a headspace problem on a gun that is in spec.

What works for me is 'smoking' the case shoulder after initial resize, chamber it and look for chamber contact midway on case shoulder in the rifle I am setting up for. If I don't like it I adjust the sizing die 'offset' until I do. Do you have a simpler (or better) method?

A case trimmer is also rather useful for a rifle. The Lee version is inexpensive but I prefer a bench mounted type. If you are trimming cases, you will also need a deburring tool. The Lee version is about $4. The RCBS version is about $10.

I finally broke down and got the motorized RCBS case trimmer and deburr/pocket ream/chamfer/neck brush devices- these was my biggest single expense each although at retail the Rock Chucker and electronic powder measure would have been more expensive.

I forget the brand of the version I use but it is about $20. Also useful is a primer pocket reamer to clean out residue and to uniform the depth. A carbide version (necessary because steel wears out quickly) cost me about $30. I forget what the flash hole uniformer cost me (probably about $15 or so).

I also like to use the manual primer seater - mine is RCBS but the Lee is also good as well as the others

These days, I use a Dillon 550B press (about $500) even when I am resizing rifle cases. I only need to handle each case once and the cases end up more precise (in my experience) than if I process them through a RCBS Rock Chucker press (about $100). I actually use TWO Dillon 550Bs because I got tired of changing back and forth from large to small primers.

If I wanted an auto press I would go Dillon also.
As you can see, it all adds up quickly.
- Ivan.

The Gun List, local papers, gun club bulletin boards are also good places to look for bargins from people selling their gear.

Last but not least - you MUST have a decent set of dial calipers to check case base diameter, case length and OAL of finished product