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Old 07-07-2009, 10:33 AM   #1
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silver ?

Hi all

What colour silver would i use for the colour of a say a mustang P51, P47 thunder bolt or as a undercoat to do a bit of aging ( forgot what it's called )
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:35 AM   #2
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Keith i used humbrol number 56 mettalic aluminium on my P-47
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:38 AM   #3
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thanks Karl

I have silver and a couple of other paints that have silver in
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Old 07-07-2009, 01:07 PM   #4
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Its called chipping mate. Any form of silver should work, no one is going to call you out on the wrong "shade". You are the artist with the stringers between your fingers, always remember this. On my B17 I chose straight chrome, now the only time it was truly chrome like mine was 60 years later when it was professionally restored, but I like the look of it.
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Old 07-07-2009, 01:53 PM   #5
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Thanks Maglar

for putting me right on the chipping. and also for the colour silver.
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Old 07-07-2009, 03:35 PM   #6
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If you want a good metallic finish you might want to try one or more of the Alclad range. I've just used it on the underside and leading edges of HV*Z(bar),Lanowski's P-47 M. Good stuff but has to be airbrushed.It is laquer based but is not as tricky as some would have you believe. Anything apart from the highly polished aluminium and (I think) chrome go on over a primer just like any other paint.
For chipping someone has already mentioned Humbrol 56. I would say don't use anything too "bright",like the Humbrol silver( 11 IIRC.)
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Old 07-07-2009, 03:40 PM   #7
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Is it possible to apply guilding foil to get a burnished alloy finish guys. sorry for buting in ellis995
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Old 07-07-2009, 04:52 PM   #8
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thanks Steve

and no bother trackend
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:13 PM   #9
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It's different for each aircraft type. There were different alloys in different areas to serve different purposes. In the case of the natural aluminum P-51 the upper wing surfaces (less flaps & ailerons) were primed and painted silver at the factory leaving the feathers brighter in contrast. Where panels were adjacent to high temps such as under cowl flaps and exhaust pipes it might not have been aluminum at all but rather stainless steel like monel. High stress areas like the empennage and wing-to-fuselage fairing might be a stronger alloy. You are better served by doing a bit of research to get the materials used and where. Then it's a simpler matter matching up correct colors.
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:32 PM   #10
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Joe's got it Keith. The main thing to do is look at pics of the actual aircraft, to see where the various different panels show different tonal 'shades'. As you are using a paint brush, I'd suggest you have a look at the bare metal guide I posted in this section a while ago. It offers some suggestions on how to achieve a realistic 'bare metal' finish without an airbrush, although it works just as well with an airbrush.
Remember, when it comes to paint chipping and wear, it was rare for the actual bare metal to show, although not uncommon. Normally, the only time this would look bright, was due to battle damage, when the paint and primer was knocked off, and the metal torn, by bullet, shell, ot flak damage etc. Most 'wear' marks, caused by icing, weather, feet on the wing roots, screwdrivers around fateners, was more of a dull greyish silver. The easiest way to do this is to mix matt white , in varying amounts, with Humbrol No11 Silver, to give varying effects. This colour is also the best basis for the start of a bare metal finish, as it won't show the 'flecks' of metallic particles as much.
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Old 07-07-2009, 07:44 PM   #11
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One technique you might experiment with is the use of graphite, aka pencil lead, where it can be used to darken certain areas. I have an (over-done) example of that on an RF-84F in the Completed Kits. It was painted overall aluminum and then "sectioned" using a number 2 pencil with a blending stump artists use. The flat aluminum paint gives a very good surface to render this technique on. You can either shade directly onto the model with the pencil or sand the pencil lead into a graphite powder, apply it to the blending stump and then work it onto the model. It can also be erased as needed. Once finished a fixative spray will seal it similar to sealing metalizers. If you go see the Thunderflash the weathering of the black anti-glare paint was done with a light gray colored pencil and blending stump.

Last edited by Sweb; 07-07-2009 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:40 PM   #12
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Ah! I wondered how you'd done that Joe! Great suggestion. Keith, the 'blending stump Joe has mentioned, is included with the patels set I bought recently. The shop I got them from for £3 has sold out, but I noticed them in 'Partners', the stationery store that's recently changed it's name, which I can't remember! If you've got one local, the set there is £3.99, has 12 pastel blocks, a pencil, eraser, sharpener, and the blending stump, plus a small sketch pad, all in a zipped case. The rest will come in useful when you eventually move on to using pastels for weathering, exhaust stains etc.
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Old 07-08-2009, 06:25 AM   #13
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Thanks Sweb and Terry

The more info i get the better model builder i will become, for future modelsto be built.
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Old 07-08-2009, 06:55 AM   #14
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Humbrol 191 is a beautiful colour for the silver of undercarriage leg oleos.
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Old 07-08-2009, 08:19 AM   #15
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Thanks Evan

I think i will start buying humbrol paints as that's what people keep mentioning
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