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Vallejo Model Air Paints

Painting Questions, Tutorials and Guidebooks Discuss Vallejo Model Air Paints in the Modeling forums; First of all, I would like to thank those who helped with my masking problems on a multi-colored spinner. It's ...

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    Senior Member fubar57's Avatar
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    Vallejo Model Air Paints

    First of all, I would like to thank those who helped with my masking problems on a multi-colored spinner. It's still a 4 footer but it's now finished.Next poser(#2 in a series of thousands),I just purchased some Vallejo Model Air paint and have read that it is hard to clean from an airbrush(gonna be my first attempt) and am wondering if this is true. I have bought their cleaner but is there more involved? The pamphlet says to spray at about 1 atmosphere. What is that in english?.I thank you for any help. Geo


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    Quote Originally Posted by fubar57 View Post
    First of all, I would like to thank those who helped with my masking problems on a multi-colored spinner. It's still a 4 footer but it's now finished.Next poser(#2 in a series of thousands),I just purchased some Vallejo Model Air paint and have read that it is hard to clean from an airbrush(gonna be my first attempt) and am wondering if this is true. I have bought their cleaner but is there more involved? The pamphlet says to spray at about 1 atmosphere. What is that in english?.I thank you for any help. Geo
    1 atmosphere = 15 psi

    Can't help you on the Model Air paints. I have heard that it is almost as bad as MMAcryl when it comes to plugging an airbrush though.

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    Senior Member vikingBerserker's Avatar
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    I think Lucky13 uses them, you might want to check with him.

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    Senior Member Crimea_River's Avatar
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    I don't use Vallejo but have used other acrylics that dry quickly and tend to clog up the brush when dry. I've found that lacquer thinner does an excellent job of dissolving any dried paint, including enamels and I usually spray the thinner through the brush after using acrylics to get the best cleaning action.

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    Forum Mascot Lucky13's Avatar
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    Haven't had any problems at all with them....well, besides the silver, aluminium etc., they're metallics and can be a right pain in the tailpipe to get some klear on and other colours, otherwise....they're great!

    Jan "Felicis Tredecim"
    "I´m going back to the front to relax"
    "THE BLACK CATS FLIES TONIGHT"
    "Find your enemy and shoot him down - everything else is unimportant!"
    "When you're out of F-8's... You're out of fighters!"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky13 View Post
    Haven't had any problems at all with them....well, besides the silver, aluminium etc., they're metallics and can be a right pain in the tailpipe to get some klear on and other colours, otherwise....they're great!
    Have you used the Model Color acrylics thru the airbrush as well? If so what do you use to thin them and in what ratio?

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    Benevolens Magister Airframes's Avatar
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    I've used the Model Colour without problem, apart from the usual with acrylics - having to ensure the 'brush is cleaned immediately, even after a few minutes break, or after a relatively long spraying session, before continuing.
    I used normal tap water to thin, at 50/50. They go on well with a paint brush too (for acrylics!), and work out to be a good buy as, if used in the airbrush, theoretically you get twice as much paint as with the Model Air !
    I don't often use acrylics, as I much prefer the versatility of enamels, but, out of those I have used (Tamiya, Revell, Humbrol and Vallejo), the Vallejo has been by far the best all round, in use, coverage and density, and clean-up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Airframes View Post
    I've used the Model Colour without problem, apart from the usual with acrylics - having to ensure the 'brush is cleaned immediately, even after a few minutes break, or after a relatively long spraying session, before continuing.
    I used normal tap water to thin, at 50/50. They go on well with a paint brush too (for acrylics!), and work out to be a good buy as, if used in the airbrush, theoretically you get twice as much paint as with the Model Air !
    I don't often use acrylics, as I much prefer the versatility of enamels, but, out of those I have used (Tamiya, Revell, Humbrol and Vallejo), the Vallejo has been by far the best all round, in use, coverage and density, and clean-up.
    What sort of pressure do you use? I tried them but they totally gummed up my airrbush - probably had the mix too thick.

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    Benevolens Magister Airframes's Avatar
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    I haven't got a regulator or gauge on my simple compressor, but I'd guess it would be around 15 psi. I have used them at around 40 paint, 60 water, for building up thin coats. But 50/50 seemesd to work fine. The Bf110G I did for the first GB was painted using the Vallejo paints, the first time I'd used them, and I didn't have a problem - nice smooth flow and good coverage and adhesion.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Airframes View Post
    I haven't got a regulator or gauge on my simple compressor, but I'd guess it would be around 15 psi. I have used them at around 40 paint, 60 water, for building up thin coats. But 50/50 seemesd to work fine. The Bf110G I did for the first GB was painted using the Vallejo paints, the first time I'd used them, and I didn't have a problem - nice smooth flow and good coverage and adhesion.
    Thanks Terry - that's about the same pressure I use, so it must have been the mix.

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    Benevolens Magister Airframes's Avatar
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    You're welcome Dwight. Try starting with a thin mix, and see what the density and adhesion is like, then increase viscosity if or as needed. When I ran it at 60/40 water/paint, it worked well, but needed to be built up with two or more passes per coat, and a total of three coats IIRC. At 50/50, the first coat (depending on colour) was virtually good enough, but I applied a second, 'just in case', and to add depth and smoothness. That was with RLM 76 overall - the dark grey wave pattern was done with one pass, one coat, for obvious reasons!!
    I remember having to stop and clean the nozzle tip once, half way through doing the RLM 76 on the Bf110, but that was just done with a wet paint brush. Clean-up, if done immediatley after use, was easy, and any paint which has 'plasticised' in the nozzle venturi was easily lifted out with a cocktail stick. I cleaned up with water, then Tamiya thinner (isopropyl), then water, then air.
    It was much easier and cleaner than the Tamiya paints and, if I had to change totally to acrylics, it would be the Vallejo Model Colour I would choose.
    I've since done a very small spray job with the Vallejo, this time using isopropyl as a thinner, and it was just as good, but with the advantage of not drying as quickly as with water. (only by a couple of minutes, but enough to make a difference for keeping the nozzle clear for longer).
    Last edited by Airframes; 07-06-2010 at 03:42 PM.



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    Vallejo air has their own thinner. A good friend told me once to stick with each manufacturers own thinner if that makes sense. I am still pretty new at the airbrush thing and like a lot of guys trying to figure stuff out. The Vallejo does dry in the nozzle pretty quickly. I might concentrate on model master enamels till I get better. This stuff can be a bit overwhelming at times

    -Roger

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    Oh yeah, I spray with a badger 150 which is syphon feed and I'm told that Vallejo air works much better with a gravity feed airbrush??? Thoughts please.

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    Siggy Master Wurger's Avatar
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    All acrylic paints do dry quickly, not in a nozzle only.There is a liquid called Retarder that makes the time of getting dried longer. ALso I don't think the way of airbrush feeding can influence the process in a significant way. The difference between the standard Vallejo paints and the air series is that the air paints are ready for direct using. These of the standard series have to be thinned before airbrushing.

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    There are a ton of acrylic retarders that you can buy; here is a partial list:

    These are some common airbrush mediums
    - Blick Polyflo
    - Createx
    - Golden
    - Jo Sonja's Lascaux
    - Aquacryl
    - Lascaux
    - Liquitex
    - Pebeo

    Several of those are available at Michael's or thru mail order artist supply sites such as DickBlicks, CheapJoe's etc.

    Retarders usually contain glycerin so you can actually make your own acrylic retarder solution with a 5-1 mix of distilled water to glycerin and then use a drop or two of THAT mixture in the acrylic paint. A web search on "acrylic airbrush reatarders" will yield a ton of info and recommendations as to what to use, and in what proportions.

    But here are two good articles about the reasoning behind the use of acrylic mediums:

    http://www.craigcentral.com/models/thinning.pdf

    Beginning Airbrushing Tips - Volume II "Spraying, Drying & Masking"

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