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Old 11-23-2007, 08:18 AM   #16
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Mainly enamels, humbrol because they are easier to get and cheaper for me at the moment.A store was closing down so I got some cheap. I use some tamiya acrylics sometimes.
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Old 11-23-2007, 08:32 AM   #17
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Also just like me.

So the problem is with your tape.There is offered the paper tape for masking windows,doors etc... in Poland.The tape is similar to Tamiya one.It is yellow and its glue is good.Howerver there are problems with its sticking to model surfaces,just like you have described above..I've just recalled myself a trick I used to avoid the feature.It appeared that its ability to strong sticking to a surface is in connection with a width of a stripe of the tape.So I cut off a very narrow (about 2mm) stripe and sticked to a surface firstly.Then I fixed the rest of masking to the narrow stripe but not to the model surface directly.It helped me to solve the problem mostly.
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Old 11-23-2007, 08:34 AM   #18
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Great minds think alike

The tape strip method I shall try on Heinkel He111.


Thankyou very much for your advice. I have many models to upload on here.

Cheers Heinz
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Old 11-23-2007, 08:37 AM   #19
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I'm glad I could help a bit.I'll be waiting for the pics of your models.

Warmest greetings.
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Old 11-23-2007, 08:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heinz View Post
Thanks SE.
I had a thought perhaps use a satin black or even gloss? Then weather it. Decals may adhere better.


My kit is the newer version they released but it sat around. Actually that one is better Screaming Eagle the old one has S for SUgar the RAAF bomber
I was thinking of a matt black and maybe a gloss black for the spinner, same as the wheels. I have to do alot of research as for painting and the decals as the kit I got is not very good on painting and decal instructions. But it goes together like a dream!
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Old 11-24-2007, 06:01 PM   #21
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Let's see some progress pics Heinz....

and I agree with Tamiya tape, use it all the time great stuff.

Wurger has some excellent tips, keep 'em coming!
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Old 11-25-2007, 04:37 AM   #22
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I'll have some shots up in a weeks time Wayne. I'm going away tomorrow so no modelling can be done
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:13 AM   #23
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I've had a problem with Testors glosscote and dullcote (Spray) shrivelling up the Airfix decals when I overspray.I have found if I use Glosscote on the model and the decal over it,the decal will set nicely.I use an old t-shirt to squeeze the decal over the details.Then I use glosscote in a bottle with a brush to coat the decal.(I cover the complete area of the camuflage color only where the decal sits to avoid color discrepencies.)Now I can spray with dullcote for the desired finish.
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:02 PM   #24
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The main problem with quite old decals or with these of poor quality that these decals like cracking.The old Mastercraft decals are the best example.Simply if you put them to water you had colour puzzles instead of decals.The only way to avoid that is to cover the decal sheets with a thin layer of a gloss (matt) cote before these decals will get water. Another problem is the one which was mentioned by Otftch and others.How to settle the decals on a model and avoid their shrivelling?The Ed's solution seems to be good.But we should remember that the model details can be very fragile.What is more ,there cannot be enough space for squeezing the decal over the details, especially on models in smaller scales.Therefore, I think that the best solution of the problem is to use ,the mentioned early, special liquids for decals or buying other decal sheets.
Of course there is possibility of making our own decals or painting these markings with patterns (masks) on a model directly.
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Old 11-27-2007, 04:04 AM   #25
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Heinz: 'Future' The Complete Future may be more suited to brush painting as a base for decals - if it doesn't work you can always use it to shine your floors!
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Old 11-27-2007, 09:14 AM   #26
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Yes Becco,these liquids are suitable for decals.Unfortunately they work exactly like a gloss cote only.It means they make a surface very smooth what improve the decal sticking.The liquids can be put on model surfaces with either a brush or an airbrush.There hasn't been mentioned another liquid called "SIDOLUX" in the article.
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