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05-05-2009, 08:05 PM
| #1 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,994
| Short S.23 While doing some research for a future build I've come across this kit CMR 1/72 Short S.23 C-Class Empire Flying Boat Admittedly its a very impressive kit indeed but ....$165 US  like $300 bucks NZ for one kit? are you f%&$%& kidding me?I'm hoping to come across some contrail and airframe vacform kits What is this world coming to when a kit costs this much? (I'd have to work like a week to get this thing) I'm thinking it be easier to buy a Airfix Sunderland for $40 bucks and spend a week at home converting it! What'das reckon? possible conversion? Thoughts/comments welcome!
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05-06-2009, 02:21 AM
| #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2,081
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05-06-2009, 02:30 AM
| #3 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 9,062
| Not too bad. I reckon you could do it Daniel. It would help if you had a scale drawing of course, but, at the risk of sparking off the 'rivet counters', as long as it looked the part, in outline and relative accuracy, it would be ok. The hardest part would be blending in the tail end of the hull, but this could be done with something like Milliput over a plastic ard former. The question is, can you obtain the Airfix Sunderland?
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05-06-2009, 09:04 AM
| #4 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,994
| Quote:
 ) Conversion doesn't look tooooo hard -thinking about it -just did a currency conversion and 165 US works out at $280 NZD .So I could buy 7 airfix Sunderlands for the price of one of these resin kits! Gotta source me some plans -Man I'm looking forward to building a few of theseThanks Graeme ,love the illustration!  so theres no real difference in the canopy? its just moved forward? hmmmm sounds like fun!
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05-06-2009, 09:12 AM
| #5 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Sth. Aust.
Posts: 12,511
| Go for it Daniel...with Graemes highly technical drawing you're in! 
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05-06-2009, 09:14 AM
| #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,994
|  I seriously love that illustration its both funny and highly useful at the same timeWhere could I find 1/72 plans for one of these? such a cool looking duck
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05-06-2009, 09:20 AM
| #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Adelaide Sth. Aust.
Posts: 12,511
| I was thinking the same thing! plans? start typing mate there must be something somewhere....Terry most likely will have something or a direction to go...?
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05-06-2009, 09:24 AM
| #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,994
| Searching now ...this may take a while Found a few sites to go through.....
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05-06-2009, 09:38 AM
| #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,994
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05-06-2009, 11:20 AM
| #10 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,224
| Great info Daniel! Looks like a bit of work, but feasible...you could maybe carve a new tail and nose from a block of balsa wood, and seal with a coat of sprue melted in liquid cement, or build up the profile with plastic formers (in two halves) then cover with thin plastic sheet or margarine containers... |
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05-06-2009, 08:22 PM
| #11 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 9,062
| Good find Daniel. I'd looked for you, but the old 'MAP Plans Service' seems to be defunct. I've got some line-drawing profiles of 'civilian' Sunderlands (and RAF) if they'll help for future projects. As for the balsa, if you use that, Evan's idea of using melted sprue is OK, but, no disrespect Evan, the old-fashioned way is easier, more accurat, quicker, and gives a superb finish. Basically, once the shape is cut and formed, the balsa grain is sealed by progressive coats of gloss varnish mixed with talcum powder, Rub down between coats, when it's fully hardened, and finish with a coat of straight gloss varnish. The end result will be as tough as armour, and as smooth as glass. It's the way balsa modellers used to do it, and is also used for making moulds for canopies etc.
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05-07-2009, 02:14 AM
| #12 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,994
| Many thanks for your help Evan and Terry although I'm a little confused with the methods Please excuse my drawing abilites
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05-07-2009, 03:31 AM
| #13 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,224
| (double posted!) Last edited by A4K; 05-07-2009 at 03:53 AM. |
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05-07-2009, 03:52 AM
| #14 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,224
| [QUOTE=Airframes;494377 Evan's idea of using melted sprue is OK, but, no disrespect Evan, the old-fashioned way is easier, more accurat, quicker, and gives a superb finish...[/QUOTE] None taken! Yours sounds much better (thanks!) Daniel, the next step is just sanding and prepping for painting. Untreated balsa remains grainy and porous, so needs to be coated to provide a smooth paintable surface. I can send you an article on the second technique I mentioned - it's similar to the method used in balsa flying model construction, or vacform modelling. |
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05-07-2009, 09:46 AM
| #15 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2,081
| G'day Daniel. Just another thought, and no comical drawings this time, but would the S.25 or S.26 be an easier choice? The S.25 in particular, being a Sunderland conversion. Got your heart set on the S.23? Lacking modelling knowledge, why would this S.23 kit be so expensive, more to do with the rarity of the aircraft or the manufacturing process? S.25...  S.26...  |
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