Wellington advice wanted - Page 3 - Aircraft of World War II

Airframes · 07-01-2009, 11:12 AM

The compressor looks ok Lee. Microflame used to do a range of compressors for studio and modelling work, but I believe they were absorbed by another company a few years back. It appears to have a standard outlets, so you'd need an adaptor for your Badger 'brush, which should be around £5 to £8 maximum. You could also fir a water trap / pressure regulator to the outlet if required, at around £16, both of the above available from the address i provided, everythingairbrush.com
Consider the cost of a suitable, brand new compressor, before bidding too high - I reckon a maximum of £50 for this second hand unit would be the limit, and then there's the carriage to consider.
Bear in mind that the (complete) Wellington at Hendon is a T10 (used in 'The Dambuster' movie BTW), which has detail differences compared to the MkIII, but will prove enormously helpful for general detail etc.
I'll see if I can assemble some bits and pieces of detail shots on Wellingtons for you, and I think I might have the Squadron Signal book too, on PDF; I'll be in touch when I know what I've got!!

trackend · 07-01-2009, 02:45 PM

Cheers AF mate
I am determined to not rush doing this project so would say buying a cheap airfix kit or simlar be best so I can hone the skills required to make a fair job of the final kit build or with care is it possible to be reasonably successful on the first build out
If say I practice with a spray gun on plastic items would it be sufficient to get the required skills, or do you need an actual kit in order to aquire the stroking skills for model spraying
The thing is if it means getting a better gun and compressor say £60-£100 in order to end up with something worth looking at & will be noticable better than I could achieve with a brush or the canister gun I already have this I dont mind but £100 would buy nearly all the paint, brushes, filler, glue and the Trumpeter model so would it be a false economy to spend that sort of dosh.

I know it all sounds rather stupid, question wise but it isnt costing me anything to ask them

Airframes · 07-01-2009, 03:25 PM

It's a very good idea to buy an inexpensive kit, perhaps not too simple, to be in line with the larger scale Wellington when you get it. Use this to practice your assembly skills, and for practice and experience in painting the smaller detail parts; it can the be used for practice sessions with the airbrush, to get used to managing around angles, perhaps some basic masking etc. But first, do as already suggested, and become familiar with the airbrush by just practicing on paper, card, the wall, a passing 'scally', anything, using the kiddies water color type paints suggested. These can be obtained in (I think) half-litre bottles, from most of the larger toy shops, and are available in most of the basic, bright colours - ideal for practicing.They will just need thinning, with water, to the approximate consistency/viscosity of milk.
As to the purchase of an airbrush and compressor, only you can decide on the viability, and it's like any other tool purchase. You need to ask 'Will it do this first important job, and will I use it again in the future?' The answer to the first question is 'Yes', and the second question will be 'Possiby'. As an aviation enthusisast, once you've built and painted your first really good model, you will probably want to do more, therefore the airbrush will be a good investment for the future. After all, it isn't going to decay or rot whilst being stored. The address I provided can supply a decent compressor and quality, inexpensive, fine-line airbrush for around £70 total, so it might be worth careful consideration. Again, this will not be needed until the model is almost finished, which will give you time, and prevent a substantial outlay all in one go.
As for the colour scheme for your Unle's 'Wimpey', that will almost certainly be the standard Bomber Command scheme of the period, and I'll include some pics, and hopefully profiles, in the stuff I put together for you.

trackend · 07-01-2009, 11:43 PM

Thanks very much AF,
Wurger sent me a book that is very good so with yours and his help things are looking good I may be opening a new chapter in my hobbys folder. Im getting back into serious photography so to that end Im re joining a camera club to get the most out of my kit so with that and the model construction when I retire in three or so years I'll have something to keep the old noodle ticking over nicely.
all the best Lee

Airframes · 07-02-2009, 12:48 AM

Sounds good Lee, and the two go well together. Model photography can be a very interesting diversion, which can test the skills and allow a heck of a lot of creativity, even without using 'Photoshop' or similar programmes. I'm still in the process of writing a basic guide on this subject, so if you want any help, just yell!
Terry.

trackend · 07-03-2009, 05:33 PM

Cheers Terry
Ive done a fair bit of table top in my time even made my own light box once

I have looked at several reviews and completed models of the Trumpeter Wellington MKIII and it is by far the best of the bunch so thats my choice.

Well the research is coming along good Ive been looking up the interior colours and have discovered that in the uk doped cloth was most commonly coated on the inside with a red stiffener Luck would have it that i have two swatches from a Stringbag.
One (see image) has the lacing attachment and were it laid against the support the original hue is still fairly clear so I intend to match this for the Wellington's interior then pick out the geodesic framing in the appropriate colour weather its cockpit green or some other colour I have yet to find out.

Oh and another question what is your opinion (should I be unable to get the correct ones) of inkjet water slide decal sheets? are they a viable alternative. I have a good quality printer and cad package but I was wondering with the need to use (according to the video instructions) 3 layers of spray laquer as a fixative if this makes the decals too thick any thoughts would be helpful
thanks Lee

Airframes · 07-04-2009, 03:35 AM

Far as I know Lee, the metal framework was in Cockpit Green, although I have seen pics and movie footage where it is possible that it was sometimes lacqured bare aluminium. I'll se what I can find out to confirm the colour.
Everything I've seen regarding inkjet decal papers has been ok, in fact I'm about to start making some of my own decals. Bear in mind that, unless you have an Alps printer, you can't print white, although with a bit of thought, some requirements for white can be 'fudged'. There are both clear and white ink jet decal papers, so anything with a white background will mostly be ok. I haven't done it yet, but I'm guessing any stable, clear varnish, even Johnson's Klear', should be ok to seal and 'fix' the printed image. I used to make decals on the old fashioned adhesive labels forty odd years ago, and seal them with clear varnish, and it worked fine.

trackend · 07-05-2009, 09:18 AM

Ok thats good info AF
cheers

Catch22 · 07-06-2009, 07:06 PM

Testor's has a decal making kit which we just bought. They have a rattle can of bonder that you spray onto the decals that your print from your inkjet. Haven't tried it yet though.

trackend · 07-07-2009, 02:11 AM

Ill bear that in mind C22 thanks. Ive sent off for the clear and white decal IJP sheets as astandby incase i cant locate some talior made ones I require but if they are not successfull I'll be interested to see how you purchase fathoms out.

A4K · 07-10-2009, 01:41 AM

From what I've been able to find out so far in my own project research Lee, for Mk.IIIs and Xs atleast, the fabric aft of the pilot's bulkhead seems to have been left as red doped cloth like your Swordfish (and my Mosquito) examples, the frames lacquered Aluminium as Terry mentioned, and the cockpit and nose areas painted entirely in Black, possibly Interior Green on some examples.

trackend · 07-13-2009, 03:30 PM

Thats very usefull info A4k thanks loads

A4K · 07-14-2009, 02:23 AM

No worries mate! I'm still trying to find out if there is a 'definite' or official scheme, or if it was just unit's choice as to how (or if) they were painted internally... Mine will be as I described, anyway, as that seems to be the concensus so far.

grob · 07-30-2009, 01:44 PM

Trackie, as you havnt done hardly any modeling before have you thought about looking for a local plastic model group ?. im not sure but i think there was one in the Southend area .They would be happy to give any advice and help starting and building kits.There are a few airo anaracs in my model group (me being one of them )and would always welcome someone new turning up if only to pick their brains for a few meetings . Good luck with the build

07-01-2009, 11:12 AM	#31
Airframes Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 11,529	The compressor looks ok Lee. Microflame used to do a range of compressors for studio and modelling work, but I believe they were absorbed by another company a few years back. It appears to have a standard outlets, so you'd need an adaptor for your Badger 'brush, which should be around £5 to £8 maximum. You could also fir a water trap / pressure regulator to the outlet if required, at around £16, both of the above available from the address i provided, everythingairbrush.com Consider the cost of a suitable, brand new compressor, before bidding too high - I reckon a maximum of £50 for this second hand unit would be the limit, and then there's the carriage to consider. Bear in mind that the (complete) Wellington at Hendon is a T10 (used in 'The Dambuster' movie BTW), which has detail differences compared to the MkIII, but will prove enormously helpful for general detail etc. I'll see if I can assemble some bits and pieces of detail shots on Wellingtons for you, and I think I might have the Squadron Signal book too, on PDF; I'll be in touch when I know what I've got!! __________________

07-01-2009, 02:45 PM	#32
trackend Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Canvey Island, Essex Posts: 4,030	Cheers AF mate I am determined to not rush doing this project so would say buying a cheap airfix kit or simlar be best so I can hone the skills required to make a fair job of the final kit build or with care is it possible to be reasonably successful on the first build out If say I practice with a spray gun on plastic items would it be sufficient to get the required skills, or do you need an actual kit in order to aquire the stroking skills for model spraying The thing is if it means getting a better gun and compressor say £60-£100 in order to end up with something worth looking at & will be noticable better than I could achieve with a brush or the canister gun I already have this I dont mind but £100 would buy nearly all the paint, brushes, filler, glue and the Trumpeter model so would it be a false economy to spend that sort of dosh. I know it all sounds rather stupid, question wise but it isnt costing me anything to ask them Last edited by trackend; 07-01-2009 at 02:52 PM.

07-01-2009, 03:25 PM	#33
Airframes Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 11,529	It's a very good idea to buy an inexpensive kit, perhaps not too simple, to be in line with the larger scale Wellington when you get it. Use this to practice your assembly skills, and for practice and experience in painting the smaller detail parts; it can the be used for practice sessions with the airbrush, to get used to managing around angles, perhaps some basic masking etc. But first, do as already suggested, and become familiar with the airbrush by just practicing on paper, card, the wall, a passing 'scally', anything, using the kiddies water color type paints suggested. These can be obtained in (I think) half-litre bottles, from most of the larger toy shops, and are available in most of the basic, bright colours - ideal for practicing.They will just need thinning, with water, to the approximate consistency/viscosity of milk. As to the purchase of an airbrush and compressor, only you can decide on the viability, and it's like any other tool purchase. You need to ask 'Will it do this first important job, and will I use it again in the future?' The answer to the first question is 'Yes', and the second question will be 'Possiby'. As an aviation enthusisast, once you've built and painted your first really good model, you will probably want to do more, therefore the airbrush will be a good investment for the future. After all, it isn't going to decay or rot whilst being stored. The address I provided can supply a decent compressor and quality, inexpensive, fine-line airbrush for around £70 total, so it might be worth careful consideration. Again, this will not be needed until the model is almost finished, which will give you time, and prevent a substantial outlay all in one go. As for the colour scheme for your Unle's 'Wimpey', that will almost certainly be the standard Bomber Command scheme of the period, and I'll include some pics, and hopefully profiles, in the stuff I put together for you. __________________

07-02-2009, 12:48 AM	#35
Airframes Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 11,529	Sounds good Lee, and the two go well together. Model photography can be a very interesting diversion, which can test the skills and allow a heck of a lot of creativity, even without using 'Photoshop' or similar programmes. I'm still in the process of writing a basic guide on this subject, so if you want any help, just yell! Terry. __________________

07-04-2009, 03:35 AM	#37
Airframes Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 11,529	Far as I know Lee, the metal framework was in Cockpit Green, although I have seen pics and movie footage where it is possible that it was sometimes lacqured bare aluminium. I'll se what I can find out to confirm the colour. Everything I've seen regarding inkjet decal papers has been ok, in fact I'm about to start making some of my own decals. Bear in mind that, unless you have an Alps printer, you can't print white, although with a bit of thought, some requirements for white can be 'fudged'. There are both clear and white ink jet decal papers, so anything with a white background will mostly be ok. I haven't done it yet, but I'm guessing any stable, clear varnish, even Johnson's Klear', should be ok to seal and 'fix' the printed image. I used to make decals on the old fashioned adhesive labels forty odd years ago, and seal them with clear varnish, and it worked fine. __________________

07-01-2009, 11:43 PM	#34
trackend Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Canvey Island, Essex Posts: 4,030	Thanks very much AF, Wurger sent me a book that is very good so with yours and his help things are looking good I may be opening a new chapter in my hobbys folder. Im getting back into serious photography so to that end Im re joining a camera club to get the most out of my kit so with that and the model construction when I retire in three or so years I'll have something to keep the old noodle ticking over nicely. all the best Lee

07-05-2009, 09:18 AM	#38
trackend Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Canvey Island, Essex Posts: 4,030	Ok thats good info AF cheers

07-06-2009, 07:06 PM	#39
Catch22 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Posts: 4,631	Testor's has a decal making kit which we just bought. They have a rattle can of bonder that you spray onto the decals that your print from your inkjet. Haven't tried it yet though. __________________

07-07-2009, 02:11 AM	#40
trackend Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Canvey Island, Essex Posts: 4,030	Ill bear that in mind C22 thanks. Ive sent off for the clear and white decal IJP sheets as astandby incase i cant locate some talior made ones I require but if they are not successfull I'll be interested to see how you purchase fathoms out.

07-10-2009, 01:41 AM	#41
A4K Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 3,844	From what I've been able to find out so far in my own project research Lee, for Mk.IIIs and Xs atleast, the fabric aft of the pilot's bulkhead seems to have been left as red doped cloth like your Swordfish (and my Mosquito) examples, the frames lacquered Aluminium as Terry mentioned, and the cockpit and nose areas painted entirely in Black, possibly Interior Green on some examples.

07-13-2009, 03:30 PM	#42
trackend Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Canvey Island, Essex Posts: 4,030	Thats very usefull info A4k thanks loads

07-14-2009, 02:23 AM	#43
A4K Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 3,844	No worries mate! I'm still trying to find out if there is a 'definite' or official scheme, or if it was just unit's choice as to how (or if) they were painted internally... Mine will be as I described, anyway, as that seems to be the concensus so far.

07-30-2009, 01:44 PM	#44
grob Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 63	Trackie, as you havnt done hardly any modeling before have you thought about looking for a local plastic model group ?. im not sure but i think there was one in the Southend area .They would be happy to give any advice and help starting and building kits.There are a few airo anaracs in my model group (me being one of them )and would always welcome someone new turning up if only to pick their brains for a few meetings . Good luck with the build

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