To Surf or Not To Surf....

[Bucksnort101]

Probably all out surfing somewhere.

[ccheese]

Too busy building scale models that win trophys at model expo's.....
Not to mention working, family, kids.... that sort of thing.

Charles

[Wayne Little]

Originally Posted by lesofprimus

I cant understand how the Aussies and Kiwis are staying away from this thread....

Never touched a surf board in my life,...will stick to model building, thanks!

[Heinz]

I live on a peninsula with heap of great surfing back beaches.
Then on a place called Phillip island a beach named Woolami attracts a ton of people, cant move when a tournament is going.
Then on the other side of the city (Melbourne) is Bells beach, one of the greatest in the world.
My cousin is very big surfy, just turned 40 and still going strong.

Still on my to do list funnily enough.

[lesofprimus]

The Austrailian National Sport is supposed to be Surfing..... U Vickies and ur non-Nationalism make me sick... All those damn fine waves and none of u pukes use em....

[Heinz]

all those waves and all those sharks

[B-17engineer]

OK I surf but I have photos from last year when I was a beginer but now I am a lot better

[GrauGeist]

Dang...I know I'm late jumping into this thread, but man, I couldn't resist, seeing as how I'm a former Southern Californian!

Surfed for a couple decades before moving to Northern California, now I'm about 150 miles from the Pacific...which blows...

My first board was an old Glen Horn I bought at a yard sale, saved my money and bought a custom made Robert August 5 1/2 foot swallowtail from the man himself, when he was making them out of his garage in Fullerton, right across from the junior college (late 70's). Scored a few others over the years, but nothing ripped like that Robert August!

Surfed the "Trestles" on down to 'Onofre, though I usually caught action at Huntington Pier in the early A.M., stopping off at Jacks for the lowdown.

If we went in the afternoon, we'd either hit the "Stacks" or, back in the day before the El Nino storms of the mid-80's cornholed the coastline, the Wedge.

Life being what it is, I no longer have my beach, my boards, my essentials, or hell...even any pics...

But I remember

[lesofprimus]

Very cool B-17... A life in the surf is one of the better ones to have my young freind...

A Robert August Ghost??? Im very impressed.... To think what that board would be worth now...... Very glad to finally get a member here from the States who understands the true meaning of life, and it aint the Salmon Mousse......

[GrauGeist]

Yep...a genuine made-to-order Robert August, custom graphics and all...I busted mah-azz to scrape up enough money to get that thing...I kept it immaculate, never once dinged it...

The real collectors items though, were my Glenn Horn six-five and a Bing log (with an old whale skag).

I scored those at two different yard sales, both were in decent shape, though the Bing was thrashed on the tip from somebody eatin' it in the shallows. It was easily fixed, though it looked nasty...lmao

Yeah, surfing is, or was for me at least, a state of mind. It's a good way to get your head on, get grounded or balanced, or how ever you want to call it.

Some people have a special place, a little garden or shrine for thier Dojo...mine was being out in the early morning, sitting on my board hangin' just outside, waiting for "that set" to come in...

[lesofprimus]

Me too brother, when I was out in the water, there was nothing else on my mind but where the next set was comin in from and where to be at....

That Glenn Horn makes my legs quiver.....