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| | #61 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,493
| Thanks Dan, I appreciate the advice. I am getting happier, its better than I thought. Ive learnt a lot even in this one build. Now for another dumbass question. Before I lacquer, should I run a very light sand to reduce the ridges from the brush marks. They are faint, but visible. I have some ultra fine wet n dry (1500 grains per inch) that I was thinking of applying wet, just to get things as smooth a I can. Or would I wreck everything by trying a stunt like that????
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| | #62 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,572
| Difficult to answer without actually seeing the model 'in the flesh'. I think I'd tend not to, but if the brush marks are really visible, especially when viewed along the horizontal axis, and can be felt with the fingers, then it might be worth a very light polishing. BUT - when the paint has hardened for at least 48 hours. Brush marks, as opposed to ridges of paint where masking has been done, won't really sand or polish out totally, so it's normally best to leave it. However, given that it's matt paint, a rub over with a damp cloth will often even things out, as what you are seeing is actually a sort of powdery deposit of dried pigment, more prevalent in matt paints. This will mostly smooth out when wiped with the damp cloth, and when the clear coat(s) are applied, the finish should look even, unless the brush marks are so bad that a re-paint is called for!!
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| | #63 |
| Minister of Whoopass ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Long Island Native in Mississippi
Posts: 18,465
| I thought u were using an airbrush Parsifal???? Too big of a step???
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| | #64 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,493
| In a word, yes. Ive done spray jobs before, but all I got with this smaller gun was spatter and mess. I think i was getting insufficient air flow across the needle.... I will practice a bit before I move into that area
__________________ Do not judge on abilities, but on choices Last edited by parsifal; 09-30-2009 at 11:25 AM. |
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| | #65 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,493
| Hi guys Things are progressing quite well, but i have hit a bit of a hurdle. I wanted to finish the A-4 in the role that it was most often used in the RAN, and which was somewhat unique. The A-4G was configured and optimised as an air defence fighter being wired to accommodate up to 4 x AIM 9B sidewinder missiles. However the ordinance available in the kit does not include any of these missiles. If I am going to fit sidewinders to my A-4, I will need to either scratch build them, or find another source. I cant find another source, so I will have to try my hand at fabrication. To do that I will need a good line drawing or illustration of the missile. I dont suppose anyone has such a drawing??? Also, I am not completely happy with the visible part of the ejection seat. Does anyone have any good photographic evidence of what an A-4 E/F/G ejection seat looked like, including colours????
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| | #66 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,869
| Sorry I can't help with any drawings mate , but I maybe able to help with the actual missiles I've got a 1/32 F-16 kit to build , comes with a load of ordanance that I won't use Let me know what size your after and you maybe able to base the 4 x AIM 9B sidewinder missiles on them Can't make any promises though sorry
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| | #67 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,493
| Quote:
But I have found the dimensions of the missile, and what it looks like. From there I have worked out the dimension I need to adopt at 1/48 scale. The missile body needs to be 5.9 mm long, and the diameter needs to be 2.8 mm since the rocket was 2.85 metres in length and the diameter was 127mm. I have 4mm diameter styrene tube, which is a bit big, but i figure my missiles will simply look badas*ed if they are bigger than they should. I also have ).5mm styrene flat sheet to make the fins. I will see if I can do a credible job tonite and post my efforts later. Hopefully it wont be too embarrassing Anyway, here are the drawings I will be using
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| | #68 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: New Zealand
Posts: 5,869
| Checked the kit and the smallest ones I think ( can't measure it that accurately) are just abit bigger than 5mm , sorry! but good luck!
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| | #69 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Canberra
Posts: 1,595
| That's a lovely looking Skyhawk you have there Parsifal, love the forward flaps, something I've never had the guts to attempt.
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| | #70 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,572
| Hi mate. If your Sidewinders don't work out, and there's no reason why they shouldn't be fine, then both Hasegawa and Tamiya do, or did, aircraft weapons sets, which included the AIM9, though they might be 9L's. There was also the Russian 'Atol', which looks the same externally. I've tried to find some pics of the ejector seat, without luck so far, but you might find one on this web-site www.seatejector.com If memory serves, it's a French site, but has a load of pics of most seats, including some older or obscure units, mostly in colour. Hope this helps.
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| | #71 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,279
| Quote:
http://www.ejectionsite.com/seatgalnf.htm You probably want Hasegawa's Weapon set C - U.S. Missiles & Gun Pods (X48-3) 5 Sprues (2 x A, 2 x B, 1 x Clear) and 1 sheet of decals ![]() which includes the following: AIM-9B Sidewinder x 4 AIM-9D Sidewinder x 4 AIM-9E Sidewinder x 4 AIM-9J Sidewinder x 4 AIM-9L Sidewinder x 4 AIM-4D Falcon x 4 AIM-4G Falcon x 4 AIM-7F Sparrow x 4 AGM-65 Maverick x 6 AGM-45 Shrike x 2 AGM-78 Standard x 2 AGM-88 HARM x 2 SUU-23A Gun Pod x 2 (includes sharkmouth decals) Mk. 4 HIPEG 20mm Gun Pod x 2 GPU-5/A 30mm Gun Pod x 2 AERO 5A-1 Launcher x 2 AERO 7A-1 Launcher x I'm pretty sure that set is still available. | |
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| | #72 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 11,572
| Great info Dwight.
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| | #73 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,493
| Oh dear, I should have checked the thread before running off and fabricating my sidewinders. I tried to find a distributor for the Hasegawa weapons set, but none are listed on the net. There is a place near Canberra that is one of the best modeling shops in Australia, I will check with tham and see if they have the "c" set available. In the meantime, have a look at the sidewinders I have fabricated and let me know what you think. They are painted in the scheme as I remember them, with red tips, a yellow band in the middle and a white aft section. I would very much like what you guys think....should I purchase the after market kit, or stay with the home made jobs.... I am getting close to application of the Decals. Are there any tips or tricks you guys would like to give me before I embark on that process. Should I use water, or the fluid that you can buy to apply them????
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| | #74 |
| Senior Member | Decals... What I used to do and still will do, is just cut the decal I want to put on then and now off and put it into a cup of warm water and give it a minute or two and it should come off of the paper (not sure what it's called) and have a tweezer handy to grab it, GENTLY. Then just apply it. Be careful they rip easily. I'm sure there are other ways that guys do it here. Decals don't need a fluid to stick, apply it when wet and it'll go on and stay on. |
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| | #75 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,279
| Quote:
Aircraft Weapons C U.S. Missiles & Gun Pods (Plastic model) Hasegawa 1/48 Aircraft In Action X48-3 Sprue brothers has them, MegaHobby, Tower Hobbies, Circle C Hobby, and several more. Try doing a google shopping search on "Hasegawa's Weapon set C" Last edited by kgambit; 10-02-2009 at 03:18 PM. | |
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