Academy 1/72 B-377-10-19 stratocruiser PAA (1 Viewer)

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I'm thinking about you a few copies in resin, so I will be able touch the mold, is the easiest way to fix it, but at the cost that has to make the silicone mold for a single plate plane is tasteful and not used uqe more, so the safest way to make the mold all the 4-engine piston in plasticine rectify the excess and go. I do not usually make or buy for the same academy have always scares of this kind, the camel sopwich to buy lace had the worst I've seen in my life, the p-47N just scary to see this because my brothers and I gave it away but what a task takes 2 months and I'm still in the assembly process.
in short, a model that is well and be decent makes one appreciate better the work done.
 
The purchase many aftermarket has a rising very high with these $ 30 I can buy 1 kg of silicone and epoxy putty to model, otherwise it would be to have to make some concrete panels that you design costs a lot more and not all the talent to be this so how are you this is stuff you do yourself in total only engine bed, yesterday and started working on it. I explain as:

pics 1 take two engines that do not serve, carefully remove the wrong and the other we get one of the pistons are fine,

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with some patience (the dremmer to position 3 and carbon disc) we cut so we left a little extra palstico both the bottom and in the rear, with fast glue the plastic cover (I use a mixture homemade craft glue cementing the house UHU dissolved in acetone, also I use the plastic blister solvent dissolved in nitro-cellulose), giving it a generous layer of glue put the piston in position, I make some moves with the piston to stick to the plastic forming a union surplus thicker plastic and smoothing the rear that by eliminating the other does not stay straight and this is so

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following cloning
 
next step:
one foot is placed plasticine, I use it for any reason is not far aderida to silicone, can be placed seamlessly couple pieces of plastic to fill channels and airy, you can model, I put the piece to clone

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say they serve all equally silicones but I am reluctant to have to suffer a deterioration of the mold by the action of the resin before its 75 copies before losing detail, so I always buy a silicone in the same place for attention to customer, amount of stock, price and proximity (I save the shipping by mail).

is this

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in the next picture the catalyst, this catalyst dual function is drying accelerator afternoon between 2 and 3 hours to dry completely and remove the happy air bubbles that can damage the mold.

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mixed in proportion, giving a little ground over the catalyst (this is indicated by 5% and usually put between 7 and 10%) is removed and is once again homogeneous silicon piece brings to the clone, before the silicone pouring above give some water to prevent sticking to the piece of silicone,

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allowed to dry within 2 to 3 hours I'd rather not touch it until 5 or 6 hours, that if the first half hour and every 15 minutes I put it in the shaker table for 5 minutes regrouped part of the silicon (the vibrating table is a computer fan connected to a computer power supply that drives the piston of an old compressor membrane that makes it vibrate), so it sits better piece silicone and removed the air that may remain between the workpiece and the silicone, the result is

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next step is to adjust the mold to keep it without ocupemucho site, cut the sides to leave the minimum clearance of 2 cm per side, not to weaken the silicone too and we can break into a demolded, now preparing for the resin and the cloning of the pieces, I hope to do today
 
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evan no that there is a pleasure to put my two cents, but knowing that this gives a lot for these molds game bullies or parts that we would like to keep putting in more places without having to always buy a large outlay.
I had a problem with the base plate of the mixtures of resins, my daughter wanted to recover for their games and I'm still yours choice but to return it, when I can leave home to go to buy a base plate that serves to make me mixtures such as small.
 
good in the inability to leave home today and the urgent need to remove the mastodon of the bench I used a glass support ikea candles to make the mixtures of the resin, the glass is unusable but at least that I've got 11 more.

I put the added resin component A

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component B

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have to mix two equal amounts of both components used laboratory specimens, with the marks necessary to make an as accurate as possible 1ml of both products needed, (I've measured before making any mixture to not pass up the resin is the most expensive this process), mezcal is to see that the component B is lighter in color disappears and honogeneo, trying to bring the slightest air while stirring (this is important to then not have many bubbles once set, air),

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normally use a vacuum chamber to make it air extraction honogenea but in anticipation of moving house for the month of October, I have the following equipment will be packed, it poured into the mold earlier that you Demonstrate and allowed to stand between 5 and 10 minutes, which can unmolding,

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is still soft resin and therefore can be deformed to be non calmly desmondar do not damage the copy, so the mold supports many more copies (if the useful life of a mold are 75 copies total drying of the resin into the mold so we have a mold that can greatly exceed the 100 cast).
here you have 4 copies and the mold

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already painted with the black base to begin tomorrow with the metallic
 
Thanks fellas, took 3 days giving the putty and sandpaper to try to make good as the union of the flaps, the engines and the plane's underbelly is giving me a lot of trouble.
I hope soon to place the photos of the first steps of painting
 
thanks guys

I started polishing the plane and has touch up caulking, polishing valletas buy a precious metal, a friend recommended me the goldsmith and are frankly very good.
I'll show you how they work:
1st pics of valletas commented.
2nd pics is how it looked the wing before passing the valletas
3rd pics happen without great care to 23,000
4th pics is past to 56000

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finally a front view

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Good stuff Sergio, and the jewellers materials can be very useful in modelling, also the jeweller's polishing powders, which can be very effective on 'bare metal' finishes.
 

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