- Thread starter
- #41
Oh, well I will just try and fix it. I'll keep you updated on progress.
Airbrushing Tips and Guides
- Thread starter DerAdlerIstGelandet
- Start date
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OK. The reason for that usually is ..
1. the next layer was applied too early during the polymerization of the previous one.
2. application of subsequent layers on other solvents and thinners or a different content of these in the mixture.
3. incorrect layer of paint appiled over the another.
the repairing way ...
Sanding off the coating affected by the defect and reapplying it.
BTW.... enamels require longer time for getting dry. At least 24h. For airbrusing the 2 days are the minimum.
1. the next layer was applied too early during the polymerization of the previous one.
2. application of subsequent layers on other solvents and thinners or a different content of these in the mixture.
3. incorrect layer of paint appiled over the another.
the repairing way ...
Sanding off the coating affected by the defect and reapplying it.
BTW.... enamels require longer time for getting dry. At least 24h. For airbrusing the 2 days are the minimum.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
It may be slight contamination of the area, with "finger grease", tape adhesive etc, possibly combined with too heavy a first coat.
I've been using enamels (Humbrol, Revell and others) for 60 years, and I've experienced similar problems only once or twice.
Some enamel colours have heavier pigments, particularly black paint, and they need a very good stir until the viscosity feels equal and "thin", with no feeling of thicker, "lumpy" pigment, before mixing with the thinners, and then stir again before use.
I'd suggest light sanding of the affected area(s), rather than paint remover, as the latter will probably cause "blistering" which can be hard to remove once fully dried.
Before re-spraying the model, mix a fresh batch of the black paint, and test it on a suitable surface, similar to the plastic of the kit, doing light passes to build up the colour.
It's always best to do two or three light coats to build depth, allowing each coat to thoroughly dry, especially with gloss paint, rather than a heavy first coat.
A heavy coat can cause bubbles and crazing, as the thinners in the paint can't evaporate properly, and therefore the air can't escape, causing the bubble effect.
I've been using enamels (Humbrol, Revell and others) for 60 years, and I've experienced similar problems only once or twice.
Some enamel colours have heavier pigments, particularly black paint, and they need a very good stir until the viscosity feels equal and "thin", with no feeling of thicker, "lumpy" pigment, before mixing with the thinners, and then stir again before use.
I'd suggest light sanding of the affected area(s), rather than paint remover, as the latter will probably cause "blistering" which can be hard to remove once fully dried.
Before re-spraying the model, mix a fresh batch of the black paint, and test it on a suitable surface, similar to the plastic of the kit, doing light passes to build up the colour.
It's always best to do two or three light coats to build depth, allowing each coat to thoroughly dry, especially with gloss paint, rather than a heavy first coat.
A heavy coat can cause bubbles and crazing, as the thinners in the paint can't evaporate properly, and therefore the air can't escape, causing the bubble effect.
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Someone please advise on the advantages of using enamels over acrylics, again?? Other than enamels 'may' be more durable when finally cured, I doubt that this is a plus for the models that are being built; unless being given to grandchildren to play with?
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Although to an extent it's a matter of taste/preference, enamels, in general, are more durable, easier to work with, especially when airbrushing (virtually no clogging, better flow overall, and easier clean-up overall), and are more versatile, both in the range of accurate colours, and for mixing of colours and actual application in varied "weights" of the coat applied.
They are also much easier to brush-paint, giving a smooth, even finish if applied correctly, nearly always needing just one coat.
Current modelling enamel paints are also very much thinner than they were, say, 40 years ago, so no "clogging" of detail, and most manufacturers supply accurate camouflage colours in their ranges with, for example "Xtracolor" having these in a gloss finish, negating the need for a gloss coat before decals - just apply the required clear finishing coat, if needed.
I have actually used acrylics a few times and, although they gave a good finish, I found they marked fairly easily, and often clogged the airbrush tip, due to the "plasticising" effect as the paint dried in the nozzle, and took more overall effort to clean the 'brush properly.
Also, even though many acrylics users state that enamels give off strong fumes (partly true I guess), I find them no worse than some acrylics, the latter always making my nose clogged and a dry throat.
Unfortunately, it's probable that under the "green" lobby, the days of enamel paints are numbered.
They are also much easier to brush-paint, giving a smooth, even finish if applied correctly, nearly always needing just one coat.
Current modelling enamel paints are also very much thinner than they were, say, 40 years ago, so no "clogging" of detail, and most manufacturers supply accurate camouflage colours in their ranges with, for example "Xtracolor" having these in a gloss finish, negating the need for a gloss coat before decals - just apply the required clear finishing coat, if needed.
I have actually used acrylics a few times and, although they gave a good finish, I found they marked fairly easily, and often clogged the airbrush tip, due to the "plasticising" effect as the paint dried in the nozzle, and took more overall effort to clean the 'brush properly.
Also, even though many acrylics users state that enamels give off strong fumes (partly true I guess), I find them no worse than some acrylics, the latter always making my nose clogged and a dry throat.
Unfortunately, it's probable that under the "green" lobby, the days of enamel paints are numbered.
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Point well taken about color 'accuracy' and availability. I will debate though the clogging issues if a proper mix of flow agent and thinner is used when spraying acrylics. But you are absolutly dead on, personal choice is paramount. Clean up??? For me water trumps. I have started using the Vallejo standard model paints for brushing. May be not a smooth as enamel but for me the areas that get this treatment is minimal; cockpit bits and such.
- Thread starter
- #47
Ok thanks guys. I will work on correcting and then repaiting.
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
The green 'movement'?? Wow, hope we never get to that level of control!
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Hope we haven't got you completely confused! As all have stated, whatever feels good, do that.
- Thread starter
- #50
We'll see if I can get it off at all. If not, it might just be what it is.
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
'Learning curve'. We have all been there and as you can see from the majority of builds posted it dosen't take that long to get to 'I'm happy with this'.
- Thread starter
- #52
Well the model has sat for a few weeks while I did some house remodeling. Finally got back to it and decided to paint the red on the hull. I masked off the area using Tamiya Tape, and before I could start painting I lifted some of the tape where I needed to correct the mask, and discovered that it had lifted the black paint. I've never had this happen before.
I think i will try and paint the red anyhow and then repaint the black.
I think i will try and paint the red anyhow and then repaint the black.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Gives you the Sh*ts when that happens and I agree, get your red done then patch were needed. When you pull the tape of because your having peel problems, do it nice and slow, may save you more peel problems. 
Quite characteristic for the acrylic paints. But the same may happen to the oil enamels. The reason for a paint peeling off can be, not washed up surface, not using of a primer or just the thinning of a paint for applying with an airbrush. A double work certainly but fixable.
- Thread starter
- #55
I think this was likely the lack of primer.
Lessons learned.
Lessons learned.
