Chipped/Flaking Paint, Aluminum Style...

[lesofprimus]

OK, so my Dora of JV44, specifically Red 1, has the back portion of the cockpit canopy as chipped camo paint showing the alum underneath...

Besides using a silver artists pencil, is there another way???

I was ready to go and spray the portions that I want to show the alum underneath, and then after that dries, spray over it and the rest of the canopy with the RLM 82....

From there its a crap shoot for me... SHould I wait till the camo is dry then carefully chip off the camo to reveal the alum under it??? Do I lightly blot off the semi-dry camo to reveal the alum???

Whats the general concensus??

[lesofprimus]

BTW, both the alum and the RLM 82 I have are enamels.... I do not have the wherewithall to get a silver pencil or acrylic alum paint, and I dont like the look of just painting it with a brush...

[lesofprimus]

Also, after the alum goes on and dries, I will spray the areas with a good coat of Future.... Let that dry and then spray the camo on.... Let that dry, not too much but dry to the finger, and then use masking tape to try and pull off some of the camo to re-create the profile and pic above...

Am I close???

[Matt308]

Here's my technique. It's worth exactly how much you paid for it.

Paint the area your camo color first. Take a cheap/worn out brush and cut the tip off it until you only have about 1/8" left (it will be very stiff). Put a dab of silver/alum/steel on your brush and remove virtually all the paint in a paper towel. Dab it (dry brush) on another area for practice to get the effect you want and put this OVER your camo area. It will look initially too bright. But once you put your final matt coat on, it tones down a lot.

[bigZ]

Another technique for a really worn and chipped look and for for larger areas. Is paint ali first. Gloop on top a salt water mix and allow to dry( I believe rubbing alchol works even better). Spray camo. Use an old toothbrush to remove salt crystals. Instant chipped paint.

[lesofprimus]

Hmmm, good idea BigZ... Not sure what ur talkin about tho...

Im not trying to do small chipping tho, but the large chips misssing on the back of the blown hood, as in the profile above....

[bigZ]

This will do large areas.

Found this vid.

YouTube - Salt-Weathering Demo Part 5 of 5 After painting Scrub

[lesofprimus]

Interesting method.... Thx for the link Z...

[Lucky13]

Try this link Dan....Weathering and washes, this one...Weathering Tips

[lesofprimus]

Thanks Jan...

[Lucky13]

Anytime buddy!

[Airframes]

I think I've tried every method/technique going over the years Dan. But I generally stick with the dry-brushing technique that Matt described. The only difference is, I very rarely, if ever, use straight 'silver'. If you look at paint chips or paint flaking on the 'real thing', you'll notice it is very rarely that bright; normally, the only time it is, is if the metal has been freshly torn up or punctured, either by accident damage, or bullet/shell holes etc. Then, it IS bright, as it's brand new, untouched metal. I normally add a touch of matt white, varying the amount to vary the shade,density/brightness. With practice, the dry-brush technique works very well indeed. It can be varied, by gently painting, in thinned colours, to achive the desired effect. However, as the area you are concerned with is the opposit, i.e. a large area of bare metal, with worn, scuffed, flaked and chipped paint remaining, I would do it the opposite way around. Paint the canopy section in the metal colour first, preferably with your airbrush, then give it a bit of a polish when dry. Now, you can either use your pull-off method, with tape, or use a masking fluid, spotted on, then paint the whole area in the cammo colour. When dry, pull off the spots of dried masking fluid. If you can't get this fluid (one type is humbrol 'Maskol'), use PVA adhesive, ever so slightly thinned with water. Alternatively, use the dry-brush technique over the 'metal' with a slightly thinner, perhaps lighter shade of the cammo colour. These all work very well indeed, and it's only the amount of brushing/masking etc, plus practice, that will affect the result. As Matt said, try it out first, on a piece of scrap plastic, an old model or something similar. I'll see if I can get a close-up shot of the very weathered, and part paint-stripped Marauder I did recently, to show you what it can look like.

[Wayne Little]

When I do this....I apply the Silver/Aluminium first, then the colour once dry then i use stripes of masking tape, apply carefully allowing only a small portion to contact the paint, then pull it up and it removes small random amounts of paint. Then I will apply some black or Red Brown or Lead from my pencil line work to dull down the exposed silver/aluminium.

[lesofprimus]

Please refrence the profile above guys.... There are large patches when the metal is bare, not just small chips...

Ive got the canopy sprayed aluminum as of last night... Should I spray it with Future before spraying the camo over it???

And should I wait till the camo paint is completely dry, a days wait, before using the tape to draw it off, or wait just until the paint is dry to the touch???

[muller]

You could try the dry-brushing method descrided above, but with a small piece of sponge held with a tweezers, dip in whatever metallic paint you're using, dab most of it off onto a piece of tissue paper, then dab it on the canopy, when dry do the same again with your camo colour.

I did this on my battered zero.