me109G-14

[ellis995]

Hi guys and girls

Well finished the 109 didn't turn out that good when i finished TRYING to do some weathering and exhaust stains .But practice makes perfect.ME THINKS
peterle 1.jpg



peterle 2.jpg

peterle 3.jpg

peterle 4.jpg

peterle 5.jpg

[Wurger]

Keith...there can be seen a nice improvement of your skillls really.But you are still rushing.Why? There is no need....
The model looks really nice. But could you tell me why the black number 13 on the starboard got the "high" place?.Assembling and painting aren't the only things you have to pay attention to.Now the weathering, at some places it looks nice but at other ones not.For instance, the propeller blades.I have never seen in pics a such paint damages on German prop blades..Going further,these exhoust stains.There is plenty of pics where you can see as these look like.
Don't get me wrong Mate the difference between the weathering and an incorrect painted model is really wee.Sometimes it is better to omit a few of them than go wrong.

To sum up, keep modelling up but slow down for goodness' sake.

[Maglar]

If the horse wants to run, let em run. Looks good keith, makin good for no airbrush. I could never mottle or whatever its called, thumbs up to you mate. Why is it so glossy, got a dull cote?

Like Wurger said, slow down and keep trying to improve on all your weakness's. When I didn't know how to weather (still don't) I just used the excuse of 'factory fresh'!

[ellis995]

Thanks Wojtek

I am trying hard to slow down Ithought i did to much on the prop, Hopefully i will do a better job on the next one.

Thanks Maglar

I bought two acrilyic paints for the camo, there are from Xtracrylix Graugrun RLM74 and
Xtracrylix Grauviolett RLM75X.

they ended up looking like gloss paint. I have put a matt coat and matt varnish on, but you wouldn't think so.

[Wurger]

You are welcome Keith. Step by step you are better and better.Also you always can ask about everything you have any doubt about.

[Maximowitz]

Peoooow! Another warp factor 9 build. A good effort as stated by Wurger but you really are not getting your money's worth building at that speed.

Slow down. Meditate. Try yoga.

[Lucky13]

Or a dram or two, maybe a Guinness....

[Maximowitz]

Tyskie!

[Wurger]

Żywiec !

[vikingBerserker]

Bookers!


I think for the overall paint job, the basic brush work is not bad.

[Airframes]

All of them, and then another round!

[Lucky13]

You're heading in the right direction Keith, no doubt about that! I know how it can be sometimes, eager to get things moving along, speed things up...
I've learned now, that whenever that feeling come sneaking up, I put the stuff down and go and do other things, DVD's, books, magazines or this forum...

Just take your time and you'll see that you'll get alot better....

Great looking '109 nonetheless, shame on one of the 13's though.

[ellis995]

sorry about that Jan

the decals where hard to soften ( if you guy's now what i mean ) they had to be soacked for a lot longer than the revell ones

the reason one " 13 " is higher than the other one is it broke

[Wurger]

Keith , for older or thick decals use quite warm water to soack and make it a little bit soft.Not hot but water of mid temperature..Before you put a decal marking on model , apply a wee drop of water at the place where it can be.It'll allow you to move it slightly with a brush.Of course it doesn't mean you can put the drop everywhere and then move the decal by the long distance because the decal marking will lose its glue. What is more, when you take a decal marking out water, draw out it slightly a little bit outside the edge of the paper base.Then use a brush for holding the decal marking at place you want to it stay on a model.If the decal is set at a correct place , the water overflow you can mop up with a paper towel for instance.If it is not set correctly and the decal moving is difficult or became impossible apply a drop of water with a brush at the top of the decal top edge.Water should go under the decal and allow to move it.

[Heinz]

Good work Keith!