me109G-14 - Aircraft of World War II

ellis995 · 08-09-2009, 09:47 AM

Hi guys and girls

Well finished the 109 didn't turn out that good when i finished TRYING to do some weathering and exhaust stains

.But practice makes perfect.ME THINKS

peterle 1.jpg

peterle 2.jpg

peterle 3.jpg

peterle 4.jpg

peterle 5.jpg

Wurger · 08-09-2009, 10:26 AM

Keith...there can be seen a nice improvement of your skillls really.But you are still rushing.Why? There is no need....
The model looks really nice.

But could you tell me why the black number 13 on the starboard got the "high" place?.Assembling and painting aren't the only things you have to pay attention to.Now the weathering, at some places it looks nice but at other ones not.For instance, the propeller blades.I have never seen in pics a such paint damages on German prop blades..Going further,these exhoust stains.There is plenty of pics where you can see as these look like.
Don't get me wrong Mate the difference between the weathering and an incorrect painted model is really wee.Sometimes it is better to omit a few of them than go wrong.

To sum up, keep modelling up but slow down for goodness' sake.

Maglar · 08-09-2009, 11:54 AM

If the horse wants to run, let em run. Looks good keith, makin good for no airbrush. I could never mottle or whatever its called, thumbs up to you mate. Why is it so glossy, got a dull cote?

Like Wurger said, slow down and keep trying to improve on all your weakness's. When I didn't know how to weather (still don't) I just used the excuse of 'factory fresh'!

ellis995 · 08-09-2009, 01:11 PM

Thanks Wojtek

I am trying hard to slow down

Ithought i did to much on the prop, Hopefully i will do a better job on the next one.

Thanks Maglar

I bought two acrilyic paints for the camo, there are from Xtracrylix Graugrun RLM74 and
Xtracrylix Grauviolett RLM75X.

they ended up looking like gloss paint. I have put a matt coat and matt varnish on, but you wouldn't think so.

Wurger · 08-09-2009, 01:30 PM

You are welcome Keith. Step by step you are better and better.Also you always can ask about everything you have any doubt about.

Maximowitz · 08-09-2009, 02:33 PM

Peoooow! Another warp factor 9 build. A good effort as stated by Wurger but you really are not getting your money's worth building at that speed.

Slow down. Meditate. Try yoga.

Lucky13 · 08-09-2009, 02:41 PM

Or a dram or two, maybe a Guinness....

Maximowitz · 08-09-2009, 02:48 PM

Tyskie!

Wurger · 08-09-2009, 03:10 PM

Żywiec !

vikingBerserker · 08-09-2009, 04:04 PM

Bookers!

I think for the overall paint job, the basic brush work is not bad.

Airframes · 08-09-2009, 04:18 PM

All of them, and then another round!

Lucky13 · 08-09-2009, 04:37 PM

You're heading in the right direction Keith, no doubt about that! I know how it can be sometimes, eager to get things moving along, speed things up...

I've learned now, that whenever that feeling come sneaking up, I put the stuff down and go and do other things, DVD's, books, magazines or this forum...

Just take your time and you'll see that you'll get alot better....

Great looking '109 nonetheless, shame on one of the 13's though.

ellis995 · 08-09-2009, 05:14 PM

sorry about that Jan

the decals where hard to soften ( if you guy's now what i mean ) they had to be soacked for a lot longer than the revell ones

the reason one " 13 " is higher than the other one is it broke

Wurger · 08-09-2009, 05:39 PM

Keith , for older or thick decals use quite warm water to soack and make it a little bit soft.Not hot but water of mid temperature..Before you put a decal marking on model , apply a wee drop of water at the place where it can be.It'll allow you to move it slightly with a brush.Of course it doesn't mean you can put the drop everywhere and then move the decal by the long distance because the decal marking will lose its glue. What is more, when you take a decal marking out water, draw out it slightly a little bit outside the edge of the paper base.Then use a brush for holding the decal marking at place you want to it stay on a model.If the decal is set at a correct place , the water overflow you can mop up with a paper towel for instance.If it is not set correctly and the decal moving is difficult or became impossible apply a drop of water with a brush at the top of the decal top edge.Water should go under the decal and allow to move it.

Heinz · 08-09-2009, 11:41 PM

Good work Keith!

08-09-2009, 09:47 AM	#1
ellis995 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Easington Lane UK Posts: 676	me109G-14 Hi guys and girls Well finished the 109 didn't turn out that good when i finished TRYING to do some weathering and exhaust stains .But practice makes perfect.ME THINKS peterle 1.jpg peterle 2.jpg peterle 3.jpg peterle 4.jpg peterle 5.jpg __________________ The Fighters are our salvation,but the bombers alone provide the means of victory. Winston Churchill September 1940

08-09-2009, 10:26 AM	#2
Wurger Siggy Master Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Poland Posts: 13,972	Keith...there can be seen a nice improvement of your skillls really.But you are still rushing.Why? There is no need.... The model looks really nice. But could you tell me why the black number 13 on the starboard got the "high" place?.Assembling and painting aren't the only things you have to pay attention to.Now the weathering, at some places it looks nice but at other ones not.For instance, the propeller blades.I have never seen in pics a such paint damages on German prop blades..Going further,these exhoust stains.There is plenty of pics where you can see as these look like. Don't get me wrong Mate the difference between the weathering and an incorrect painted model is really wee.Sometimes it is better to omit a few of them than go wrong. To sum up, keep modelling up but slow down for goodness' sake. __________________ Last edited by Wurger; 08-09-2009 at 10:37 AM.

08-09-2009, 11:54 AM	#3
Maglar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 1,151	If the horse wants to run, let em run. Looks good keith, makin good for no airbrush. I could never mottle or whatever its called, thumbs up to you mate. Why is it so glossy, got a dull cote? Like Wurger said, slow down and keep trying to improve on all your weakness's. When I didn't know how to weather (still don't) I just used the excuse of 'factory fresh'! __________________

08-09-2009, 01:11 PM	#4
ellis995 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Easington Lane UK Posts: 676	Thanks Wojtek I am trying hard to slow down Ithought i did to much on the prop, Hopefully i will do a better job on the next one. Thanks Maglar I bought two acrilyic paints for the camo, there are from Xtracrylix Graugrun RLM74 and Xtracrylix Grauviolett RLM75X. they ended up looking like gloss paint. I have put a matt coat and matt varnish on, but you wouldn't think so. __________________ The Fighters are our salvation,but the bombers alone provide the means of victory. Winston Churchill September 1940

08-09-2009, 01:30 PM	#5
Wurger Siggy Master Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Poland Posts: 13,972	You are welcome Keith. Step by step you are better and better.Also you always can ask about everything you have any doubt about. __________________

08-09-2009, 02:33 PM	#6
Maximowitz Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: London, England. Posts: 839	Peoooow! Another warp factor 9 build. A good effort as stated by Wurger but you really are not getting your money's worth building at that speed. Slow down. Meditate. Try yoga. __________________

08-09-2009, 02:41 PM	#7
Lucky13 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: A Swede living in Glasgow, Scotland Posts: 15,144	Or a dram or two, maybe a Guinness.... __________________ JAN "Felicis Tredecim" "I´m going back to the front to relax" "THE BLACK CATS FLIES TONIGHT" "Find your enemy and shoot him down - everything else is unimportant!" "When you're out of F-8's... You're out of fighters!"

08-09-2009, 02:48 PM	#8
Maximowitz Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: London, England. Posts: 839	Tyskie! __________________

08-09-2009, 03:10 PM	#9
Wurger Siggy Master Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Poland Posts: 13,972	Żywiec ! __________________

08-09-2009, 04:04 PM	#10
vikingBerserker Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Posts: 3,760	Bookers! I think for the overall paint job, the basic brush work is not bad. __________________ "Those who forget the past are condemned to repeat it" "Those who dwell in the past, condemn the future" Last edited by vikingBerserker; 08-09-2009 at 04:06 PM.

08-09-2009, 04:18 PM	#11
Airframes Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 9,062	All of them, and then another round! __________________

08-09-2009, 04:37 PM	#12
Lucky13 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: A Swede living in Glasgow, Scotland Posts: 15,144	You're heading in the right direction Keith, no doubt about that! I know how it can be sometimes, eager to get things moving along, speed things up... I've learned now, that whenever that feeling come sneaking up, I put the stuff down and go and do other things, DVD's, books, magazines or this forum... Just take your time and you'll see that you'll get alot better.... Great looking '109 nonetheless, shame on one of the 13's though. __________________ JAN "Felicis Tredecim" "I´m going back to the front to relax" "THE BLACK CATS FLIES TONIGHT" "Find your enemy and shoot him down - everything else is unimportant!" "When you're out of F-8's... You're out of fighters!"

08-09-2009, 05:14 PM	#13
ellis995 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Easington Lane UK Posts: 676	sorry about that Jan the decals where hard to soften ( if you guy's now what i mean ) they had to be soacked for a lot longer than the revell ones the reason one " 13 " is higher than the other one is it broke __________________ The Fighters are our salvation,but the bombers alone provide the means of victory. Winston Churchill September 1940

08-09-2009, 05:39 PM	#14
Wurger Siggy Master Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Poland Posts: 13,972	Keith , for older or thick decals use quite warm water to soack and make it a little bit soft.Not hot but water of mid temperature..Before you put a decal marking on model , apply a wee drop of water at the place where it can be.It'll allow you to move it slightly with a brush.Of course it doesn't mean you can put the drop everywhere and then move the decal by the long distance because the decal marking will lose its glue. What is more, when you take a decal marking out water, draw out it slightly a little bit outside the edge of the paper base.Then use a brush for holding the decal marking at place you want to it stay on a model.If the decal is set at a correct place , the water overflow you can mop up with a paper towel for instance.If it is not set correctly and the decal moving is difficult or became impossible apply a drop of water with a brush at the top of the decal top edge.Water should go under the decal and allow to move it. __________________

08-09-2009, 11:41 PM	#15
Heinz Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Victoria Posts: 6,735	Good work Keith! __________________

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