fubar57
General
The togetherness looks very nice Ralph
**** DONE: GB-59 1/48 Ki-61-Id Hein - WW2 PTO V
- Thread starter Ralph Haus
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #23
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Where was this guy flying that the kite needed repainting that often?? Or just crappy paint?
- Thread starter
- #24
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Used the Tamiya extra this 'quick setting' liquid. No crazing or blotching spread where the clear met the gray. I had thought about using a thin super glue but thought this might do. Glad I did. Might use it on all joints going forward? Applied to a wing bottom panel, wicks perfect and no (or very little) distortion of the joining pieces. Seems to create a solid joint.
IMHO all the pics were taken in the different time period from 1944 to 1945. But it is true that the paints used for the camouflage weren't of the greatest quality. These quite quiclky faded and peeled off. What is more the different markings don't mean that is was still the same kite. As memo serves the rotation/changing of the flying equipment , even in the same unit , wasn't anything strange at the last year of the war.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
It looks good Ralph, those two halves seem to have married up nicely. 
nice work Ralph
- Thread starter
- #28
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Primer on. Red tail done. I do not want to use the supplied decals for the orange (?) leading edge so I will be painting, thus the start of 'bounding' the spray area. I just need to get a color to match the decal tone. Tamaya Orange is not close. Using a mix of Vallejo yellow and orange seems to get me close? Jesse, any suggestions on color (paint) to use?
The color 'swatches' did not adhere to the decal surface and proceeded to crack up when dry. The patch next to the 2:1 yellow orange mix is a 1:1 yellow orange. The larger patch is just the orange.
As can be seen, the decals for the wheel bay doors (22,25) are horribly thin in places. Not showing is the decal carrier width in the thin areas. A problem waiting to happen. Much better controlled by masking and spraying after the metal coat is applied.
The color 'swatches' did not adhere to the decal surface and proceeded to crack up when dry. The patch next to the 2:1 yellow orange mix is a 1:1 yellow orange. The larger patch is just the orange.
As can be seen, the decals for the wheel bay doors (22,25) are horribly thin in places. Not showing is the decal carrier width in the thin areas. A problem waiting to happen. Much better controlled by masking and spraying after the metal coat is applied.
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Tamiya XF-3 yellow with teensy drops of red XF-7 til you get the tone you want. Very easy to overdo the red though so be careful.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Looks like Andy has come to the rescue Ralph.
fubar57
General
Agree with Andy and to save further time with mixing I grabbed an old cleaned out Tamiya paint bottle and mixed up a bunch. Got this idea from Wayne and have started mixing batches
- Thread starter
- #33
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Sounds like a plan. Thanks. I'll go with that. Since I'll not be using any of that color decal anywhere else I can be close!
- Thread starter
- #34
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Looks like you applied the yellow last? I was/am debating the sequence. Thinking the metal may not be as thick and cause any 'lines'. But then again will the yellow be difficult to cover?
Crimea_River
Marshal
Yes, silver coat first, then laid down some white before the yellow to provide coverage.
- Thread starter
- #36
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Read (or re-read ?? senior moments here) you 2022 build and understood the sequence. I decided to follow that and did the BM coat over; all but the red (masked off) tail section. Paint now drying. Pics to come once I get the aluminum coloring on the flaps and the yellow on the leading ege. Need to do the black on the nose as well.
- Thread starter
- #37
Ralph Haus
Tech Sergeant
Just the BM and red coats to show for now.
fubar57
General
Fantastic NMF Ralph
Crimea_River
Marshal
I agree with the grader driver.
