- Thread starter
- #21
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Ah... did not know that. Thanks!
**** DONE: 1/48 Fw190 D-9 "Blue 12" - Winter War / Eastern Front WWII
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Ah... did not know that. Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #22
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Woohoo! UPS dropped a box at my front door today! Don't you love coming home with presents under the tree?
When shopping for a 1/48 D-9, I considered offerings by Tamiya, Eduard and Hobby Boss. All of them seemed to be in good standing among modelers with the Tamiya being noted for its Tamiya-like ease of construction (but with some shortcomings like landing gear length and closed wheel wells), the Eduard being the most detailed of the bunch and the Hobby Boss being a basic and (mostly) accurate kit at a good price. I was swayed by the box art... the perspective is unique and shows off the proportions of the D-9 perfectly.
Hobby Boss packs the Dora in a very sturdy box and encloses each sprue in its own protective bag. The decals and clear parts are further protected by a sheet of frosted paper and a foam wrap, respectively. First class packaging!
The first thing I noticed is the plastic. The surface has a very fine texture to it, which is unlike the perfectly smooth surfaces of every other kit I've experienced. It looks great but I wonder if it will be noticeable when that finish needs to be sanded.
Detailing is very good and the panels lines are nicely done... recessed and fine. No rivets depicted.
Two types of wheels are provided and I've gone and taken pictures of the wrong set. I'm pretty sure the non-spoked wheels are the ones that will be used for 500570. Wheel detailing is nice and crisp with just a hint of flash.
The exhaust pipes are solid on the end, which is typical. Time to sharpen up the X-Acto blade!
Decent detail in the wheel wells.
The instrument panel comes in two pieces. No molded detail for the instrument faces so I'm forced to use the decal approach. I personally like handpainting the instruments so this is a bit of a negative for me.
Two ring cowlings are provided: flaps closed and flaps open. Going the open route will require some surgery as flaps are all connected. Need to remember to close the one starboard flap per the reference photo.
One of the reasons, the Hobby Boss offering was selected was that it offered the correct "open" wheel well view into the rear of the engine. What's presented is well detailed but it's probably overly simplistic compared to the real maze of ducts and tubes. I may dabble into some scratchbuilding here, if I can stoke up enough confidence.
The prop looks ok to me. I haven't compared it to any references but it has the wide-bladed look of Dora prop.
The gun cowling is a separate piece with the gun barrels NOT molded in. Definite plus on that point. I've run into internet discussion of the inaccuracy of the gun cowling shape (too flat) but I don't think I will attempt a fix since I think it would be beyond my abilities to correct cleanly.
The supercharger intake has its own tree!
One of two trees devoted to ordinances. I don't think I'll be hanging anything from this Dora but will be putting on the ETC rack as evidenced in the reference photos.
The clear parts are nice and clear with the non-glass portion of the canopy finished in that interesting texture.
The decals look crisp and clean and appear to be thin. The "12" and the dash are presented in black with a white outline. However, based on analysis of the reference photos some experts including Jerry Crandall have concluded that these markings are blue not black. I have a copy of Monogram's Close Up #10, which was the first publication to show the single color photo of 500570. Based on my inspection of that picture and the other pictures that have been posted here, I must say that I agree with that assertion. But... I really don't want to spend $10-$20 on a decal sheet just to use four markings. I'm going to have to think about this one.
The instructions come with a color rendition of the two color scheme choices. A very nice touch! The top view shows the 81/grunblau 76 coloration on the wings that may not be universally accepted as accurate. I like it though!
Time to start diving in! I'll probably start like I always do... opening up the exhaust pipes and gun barrels and also thinning the cowl flaps and separating them.
One request that I do have for any Dora experts out there is... does anyone have any pictures of the wheel well opening view into the back of the engine? I think my Japanese Model Art reference has some line drawings of that area but I'd like to start thinking about how to dress that up somehow.
When shopping for a 1/48 D-9, I considered offerings by Tamiya, Eduard and Hobby Boss. All of them seemed to be in good standing among modelers with the Tamiya being noted for its Tamiya-like ease of construction (but with some shortcomings like landing gear length and closed wheel wells), the Eduard being the most detailed of the bunch and the Hobby Boss being a basic and (mostly) accurate kit at a good price. I was swayed by the box art... the perspective is unique and shows off the proportions of the D-9 perfectly.
Hobby Boss packs the Dora in a very sturdy box and encloses each sprue in its own protective bag. The decals and clear parts are further protected by a sheet of frosted paper and a foam wrap, respectively. First class packaging!
The first thing I noticed is the plastic. The surface has a very fine texture to it, which is unlike the perfectly smooth surfaces of every other kit I've experienced. It looks great but I wonder if it will be noticeable when that finish needs to be sanded.
Detailing is very good and the panels lines are nicely done... recessed and fine. No rivets depicted.
Two types of wheels are provided and I've gone and taken pictures of the wrong set. I'm pretty sure the non-spoked wheels are the ones that will be used for 500570. Wheel detailing is nice and crisp with just a hint of flash.
The exhaust pipes are solid on the end, which is typical. Time to sharpen up the X-Acto blade!
Decent detail in the wheel wells.
The instrument panel comes in two pieces. No molded detail for the instrument faces so I'm forced to use the decal approach. I personally like handpainting the instruments so this is a bit of a negative for me.
Two ring cowlings are provided: flaps closed and flaps open. Going the open route will require some surgery as flaps are all connected. Need to remember to close the one starboard flap per the reference photo.
One of the reasons, the Hobby Boss offering was selected was that it offered the correct "open" wheel well view into the rear of the engine. What's presented is well detailed but it's probably overly simplistic compared to the real maze of ducts and tubes. I may dabble into some scratchbuilding here, if I can stoke up enough confidence.
The prop looks ok to me. I haven't compared it to any references but it has the wide-bladed look of Dora prop.
The gun cowling is a separate piece with the gun barrels NOT molded in. Definite plus on that point. I've run into internet discussion of the inaccuracy of the gun cowling shape (too flat) but I don't think I will attempt a fix since I think it would be beyond my abilities to correct cleanly.
The supercharger intake has its own tree!
One of two trees devoted to ordinances. I don't think I'll be hanging anything from this Dora but will be putting on the ETC rack as evidenced in the reference photos.
The clear parts are nice and clear with the non-glass portion of the canopy finished in that interesting texture.
The decals look crisp and clean and appear to be thin. The "12" and the dash are presented in black with a white outline. However, based on analysis of the reference photos some experts including Jerry Crandall have concluded that these markings are blue not black. I have a copy of Monogram's Close Up #10, which was the first publication to show the single color photo of 500570. Based on my inspection of that picture and the other pictures that have been posted here, I must say that I agree with that assertion. But... I really don't want to spend $10-$20 on a decal sheet just to use four markings. I'm going to have to think about this one.
The instructions come with a color rendition of the two color scheme choices. A very nice touch! The top view shows the 81/grunblau 76 coloration on the wings that may not be universally accepted as accurate. I like it though!
Time to start diving in! I'll probably start like I always do... opening up the exhaust pipes and gun barrels and also thinning the cowl flaps and separating them.
One request that I do have for any Dora experts out there is... does anyone have any pictures of the wheel well opening view into the back of the engine? I think my Japanese Model Art reference has some line drawings of that area but I'd like to start thinking about how to dress that up somehow.
Attachments
Crimea_River
Marshal
Actually a very good reference is Eduard's instruction sheet, If you go to their website, they have all their instruction sheets available in pdf and they are very accurately drawn. You can also use my Eduard build as a reference. The kit provides a detailed engine plug and I added a few more hoses.
If you look closely at the last pic Andy posted you'll see two spent cartridge chutes - correct for a D-9. Did I see just one on the Hobby Boss kit's lower wing?
Regardless, the more I see of that HB kit, the more I want one. Makes me feel like Goldilocks: Tamiya's too simple, Eduard's too complex, Fujimi's too clunky, Dragon's too tricky...but Hobby Boss is just right!
Regardless, the more I see of that HB kit, the more I want one. Makes me feel like Goldilocks: Tamiya's too simple, Eduard's too complex, Fujimi's too clunky, Dragon's too tricky...but Hobby Boss is just right!
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Looks like a good kit.
Blue 12 is correct. the HB kit actually looks pretty good in the box, one obvious issue is the ejection openings as pointed out.
- Thread starter
- #27
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Hmmm... I take it that the single chute on the Hobby Boss kit is in the correct location and a second one SHOULD be cut out next to it, per the Eduard kit? I'll take a closer look at this. I'm decent reamer of exhaust pipes and gun barrels but I don't have much confidence in cutting uniformly square shapes out of styrene plastic. Plus it looks to be very close to the wheel well opening, which sends off little warning bells in my head.
I pulled the trigger on masks. I ordered the Montex set, which includes masks for markings.
Note the presence of the numeral "12". I now have the opportunity to correct the kit decals and mask the "12" and the dash in blue.
- Thread starter
- #28
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
BTW... excellent suggestion on using the Eduard Dora as a guide for the wheel well plumbing!
Crimea_River
Marshal
The twin ejector chutes would be correct for the D-9. The single one on your model seems to depict a D-13 which had a single, larger chute for the engine mounted cannon. (There's a long story about why that is but that's a whole different thread!) To be completely accurate, your two chutes should be slightly smaller than the one provided on the model. To make these, get a drill whose diameter equals the width of the rectangular opening. If you can drill two holes at the front and back of the opening, it's an easy matter to then square up the holes with a #11 blade. If you don't have room for two large holes, just make one on one end and two small holes in the corners at the other end then cut the rest as before.
You should be able to cut the dashes with those masks as well. It will be tricky to cut the different widths precisely to get the white border exactly right though.
You should be able to cut the dashes with those masks as well. It will be tricky to cut the different widths precisely to get the white border exactly right though.
Last edited:
Lucky13
Forum Mascot
- Thread starter
- #31
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Started on hollowing out the exhausts. Luckily, the orientation of the exhausts allows access to the tips with a #11 X-Acto blade. Unluckily, the ellipse shape necessitated three small holes for each exhaust end so it is slow tedious work. The Hobby Boss exhausts are very nice with the correct tip cross-section, weld line and even the raised flange around the lip of the exhaust tips. The first set went off without a mishap.
I got careless with the second set and blew out the sides of a couple of exhausts with the tip of the knife. I was able to push the material back into place. I've "welded" it some Tamiya Extra Thin and will let this cure before attempting to finish the second set. In the meantime, I've separated the cowl flaps. For the single closed flap, I scored the base of it on the inside of the cowling and simply bent it closed. I will use primer to check if there are any surface irregularities caused by the bending but I think it's ok.
Next I moved to the guns. The Hobby Boss kit provides rather simplified gun tips for the cowl-mounted MG 131's. I have some Hasegawa spares that have a more detail at the tips including the flared muzzle so I hollowed out a pair. I tried to fit these into the cowling but the holes are too small to accept them. I enlarged the holes as much as I could but still no go. I will probably use the kit MG 131's. Only the very tips are exposed so it shouldn't be too noticeable.
I have some stainless steel hypodermic tubing that I finally figured out how to cut. I have to use a diamond rotary cutter on the Dremel at high speed. Not a perfect cut but I can probably clean it up. I am considering this tubing for the wing-mounted MG 151's. The kit supplied 151's have a slight warp to them so I wanted to have an alternative in case I can't get the kit guns to work.
I spent the rest of the evening perusing the Dora Galora thread. 80+ pages is hard to negotiate but there is a TON of useful info/discussion on there including some talk of 500570. I wish each build in that post had its own separate discussion because there is really some beautiful work in those 80 pages. One thing that caught my eye was Andy's Black 6 (which was absolutely gorgeous, BTW)... the wheel wells were depicted in natural metal. I missed the discussion part since I was hopping around... is that typical of late war Dora's? Should I be considering something similar for Blue 12? I know you guys must be sick of talking about Doras... I'm sorry I missed that group build!
I got careless with the second set and blew out the sides of a couple of exhausts with the tip of the knife. I was able to push the material back into place. I've "welded" it some Tamiya Extra Thin and will let this cure before attempting to finish the second set. In the meantime, I've separated the cowl flaps. For the single closed flap, I scored the base of it on the inside of the cowling and simply bent it closed. I will use primer to check if there are any surface irregularities caused by the bending but I think it's ok.
Next I moved to the guns. The Hobby Boss kit provides rather simplified gun tips for the cowl-mounted MG 131's. I have some Hasegawa spares that have a more detail at the tips including the flared muzzle so I hollowed out a pair. I tried to fit these into the cowling but the holes are too small to accept them. I enlarged the holes as much as I could but still no go. I will probably use the kit MG 131's. Only the very tips are exposed so it shouldn't be too noticeable.
I have some stainless steel hypodermic tubing that I finally figured out how to cut. I have to use a diamond rotary cutter on the Dremel at high speed. Not a perfect cut but I can probably clean it up. I am considering this tubing for the wing-mounted MG 151's. The kit supplied 151's have a slight warp to them so I wanted to have an alternative in case I can't get the kit guns to work.
I spent the rest of the evening perusing the Dora Galora thread. 80+ pages is hard to negotiate but there is a TON of useful info/discussion on there including some talk of 500570. I wish each build in that post had its own separate discussion because there is really some beautiful work in those 80 pages. One thing that caught my eye was Andy's Black 6 (which was absolutely gorgeous, BTW)... the wheel wells were depicted in natural metal. I missed the discussion part since I was hopping around... is that typical of late war Dora's? Should I be considering something similar for Blue 12? I know you guys must be sick of talking about Doras... I'm sorry I missed that group build!
- Thread starter
- #32
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
I think I read something about a D-9 on display having the incorrect (D-13) wings on it. I will attempt to make that correction using that approach... thanks Andy!
I'm concerned about the exact same thing with the dashes too. I just need to do it carefully. I'll probably xerox the kit decals and use them as a template to cut a set of custom masks.
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Ahhhh, another Dora. Lord, how I have a love/hate going with the Doras. Love the aircraft, hate the insanity of the color scheme!
Lucky13
Forum Mascot
Can never have too many Doras or 109's.... 
Andy's method works well - drill holes and connect the dots - and here's another method: using a brass or steel template, scribe the outline of your ejector chute into the wing, lightly at first and then more aggressively until you've scribed right through. Clean up with a new blade or jeweller's file.
- Thread starter
- #36
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks slam! That sounds like another good way to do it. I'll have to practice on a spare piece of styrene.
Crimea_River
Marshal
WOT!!!!! You go wash your mouth out with soap young man!
Thanks for the compliment on Black 6 John. I enjoyed that Eduard build a lot but actually like how my modified Tamiya Dora turned out better (http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/st...hite-11-iv-jg51-34729.html?highlight=white+11). Regarding the natural metal wheel wells, that was total artistic license as the only picture of that particular aircraft that is in circulation is the tail, the rest of it having been burned to the ground. I figured it was possible that many wing components were left unpainted in the later stages of the war and I wanted to try out my Alclad. I don't think you can go wrong doing yours in RLM02.
Looks good so far!
- Thread starter
- #39
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Wow Andy... your White 11 is amazing too! But I like Black 6 better... I think I'm just partial to those Luftwaffe finishes with 81 in them. My Blue 12 should look similar to your Black 6 in terms of colors. Did T-Bolt ever finish his Blue 12? That was a nice build and I was hoping to use his as a reference for mine.
I'm slowly progressing on my 500570. The Hobby Boss cockpit is a mixture good, decent and bad. The level of detail is not high but what is there is presented well. Outside of the tub, there is no sidewall detail at all, save the canopy actuation wheel on the front left wall. But my main complaint would have to be the instrument panel. As I showed in my sprue pics, the IP has the dial outlines molded into the panel but without the face detail. So you are forced to use the decals, which I've never been a fan of. The result is an instrument panel that looks a bit cartoonish compared to the detail level of the rest of the cockpit. It's not a deal breaker for me personally. I like to build my planes buttoned up and cockpits closed to preserve the lines of the aircraft so cockpit detail is something that can be compromised. Although the decal is not 100% lined up with the dials, that's the closest I could get. On a positive note, the decals themselves are good quality and they settled into the irregularities of the instrument panel face with a minimal application of Micro Sol.
The kit foot pedals were replaced with PE pedals just because I had them. They reside behind the instrument panel so I'll never see them. However, seatbelts WILL be visible and I thought I had some leftover PE seatbelts as well but I used them up in my 190A-4 build. I'm going to take a breather on the cockpit for now until I figure out what to do for seatbelts. I'll also probably add a throttle lever since it is so big and obvious on the Dora. Note the key tabs on the sides of the cockpit tub. The fit of the cockpit tub into the fuselage sides is the most positive that I've experienced.
I wanted to start looking at the wheel well opening into the back of the engine. Like the Eduard 190D-9, the well is correctly shown open to the back of the engine bay. But unlike the Eduard rendition, the engine plug assembly includes a front bulkhead only. The back bulkhead is provided by the cockpit tub. Because of this separation of assemblies, I thought it would be wise to dry fit the cockpit, fuselage halves, the engine plug, wheel well insert and wings and try to pre-plan any scratchbuilt ducts, tubes and wires.
Cutting the wings from the sprues, I noticed something I've never seen before. The sprue connections for the main components are constrained to the joint edge. This leaves all of the visible surfaces free from sprue marks... quite impressive. Any other company besides Hobby Boss does this???
In that last picture, you can see that interesting surface texture that I was talking about.
I'm slowly progressing on my 500570. The Hobby Boss cockpit is a mixture good, decent and bad. The level of detail is not high but what is there is presented well. Outside of the tub, there is no sidewall detail at all, save the canopy actuation wheel on the front left wall. But my main complaint would have to be the instrument panel. As I showed in my sprue pics, the IP has the dial outlines molded into the panel but without the face detail. So you are forced to use the decals, which I've never been a fan of. The result is an instrument panel that looks a bit cartoonish compared to the detail level of the rest of the cockpit. It's not a deal breaker for me personally. I like to build my planes buttoned up and cockpits closed to preserve the lines of the aircraft so cockpit detail is something that can be compromised. Although the decal is not 100% lined up with the dials, that's the closest I could get. On a positive note, the decals themselves are good quality and they settled into the irregularities of the instrument panel face with a minimal application of Micro Sol.
The kit foot pedals were replaced with PE pedals just because I had them. They reside behind the instrument panel so I'll never see them. However, seatbelts WILL be visible and I thought I had some leftover PE seatbelts as well but I used them up in my 190A-4 build. I'm going to take a breather on the cockpit for now until I figure out what to do for seatbelts. I'll also probably add a throttle lever since it is so big and obvious on the Dora. Note the key tabs on the sides of the cockpit tub. The fit of the cockpit tub into the fuselage sides is the most positive that I've experienced.
I wanted to start looking at the wheel well opening into the back of the engine. Like the Eduard 190D-9, the well is correctly shown open to the back of the engine bay. But unlike the Eduard rendition, the engine plug assembly includes a front bulkhead only. The back bulkhead is provided by the cockpit tub. Because of this separation of assemblies, I thought it would be wise to dry fit the cockpit, fuselage halves, the engine plug, wheel well insert and wings and try to pre-plan any scratchbuilt ducts, tubes and wires.
Cutting the wings from the sprues, I noticed something I've never seen before. The sprue connections for the main components are constrained to the joint edge. This leaves all of the visible surfaces free from sprue marks... quite impressive. Any other company besides Hobby Boss does this???
In that last picture, you can see that interesting surface texture that I was talking about.
Jeff Hunt
1st Lieutenant
Another top notch effort underway...looking good...
Cheers,
Jeff
Cheers,
Jeff
