Typhoon MK.1B 439 RCAF Squadron

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Could you post a couple of pics of these parts for the pylons and bombs you have. I need to see how these were moulded in order to decide which technique of making them would be cheaper and easier for you.
 
I have thought exactly the same Terry. And therefore I couldn't understand what was going on with these bombs and pylons. Your answer was clear for me. But I guess our Mate Totalize needs some of help with making of these pylons. Therefore I consider moving of the thread to the modelling section Building Questions, Tutorials and Guidebooks. It seems to be more relevant area for a such post. But let's see what Totalize can say.



Wurger,

I may be missing something here but I don't see the confusion.
1. I am looking at bomb options for the Canadian Typhoon bubble top. The Hasegawa bubble top kit I have does not come with bombs just rockets.
2. I mentioned I have the Hasegawa Car Door kit which has the Typhoon bombs and pylons but would like to if possible keep them for this kit.
3. I mentioned I have the Tamiya Mosquito kit and asked if I could possibly use the bombs and pylons from that kit. There was no mention of or question of modifying the pylons to fit the Typhoon. All questions were about a straight substitution.
4. Terry posted a image of a Typhoon with bomb and pylon drawings and stated that the Pylons from the Mosquito kit MAY work but was not sure.
5 You posted some images of Typhoons showing the Typhoon pylons which was very beneficial.
6. I posted images of both Mosquito and Typhoon pylons showing there is a clear difference between the two so that its not a simple job of just substituting the Mosquito pylons on the Typhoon.
7. Terry posted saying they would need modifications if trying to make a typhoon pylon from a Mosquito pylon and visa versa.
8. Now that my questions regarding using Mosquito pylons on a Typhoon are answered my options are now clear. I either modify the Mosquito pylons to fit the typhoon or use the set from the Car Door Typhoon or get another set of Typhoon pylons or bombs which Terry has been so kind as to to offer.

Hope this helps.

David.
 
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Could you post a couple of pics of these parts for the pylons and bombs you have. I need to see how these were moulded in order to decide which technique of making them would be cheaper and easier for you.

Now that you have seen the differences between the two pylons would you still like to see the kit differences? If so I can try and take some pictures and post.
 
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Again I'm sorry. It's my fault I think. I assumed you didn't understand Terry's suggestion or have a trouble with making these pylons and bombs. What is more I often can't understand what for somebody wants to spend some money if there is always a way for making of such details from scratch. Just a modeller's habit .... I hope that now all is clear for you as well.
At least we talked a little bit. :lol:

You may take pics of these parts without cuting them off. Just take images of these in sprues.
 
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Again I'm sorry. It's my fault I think. I assumed you didn't understand Terry's suggestion or have a trouble with making these pylons and bombs. What is more I often can't understand what for somebody wants to spend some money if there is always a way for making of such details from scratch. Just a modeller's habit .... I hope that now all is clear for you as well.
At least we talked a little bit. :lol:

You may take pics of these parts without cuting them off. Just take images of these in sprues.




Wurger,

Not a problem, I too don't want to have to purchase extra parts to make the correct changes hence my questions about substituting Mosquito pylons for Typhoon pylons.

So, here are some pictures of the differences between the two pylons. I took the mosquito sprue out of its sealed bag but didnt want to do that as well for the Car Door Typhoon hence the in bag pictures of the Typhoon pylons.

Tamiya Mosquito pylons:

IMG_0156a900.JPG


IMG_0155a900.JPG


IMG_0152a900.JPG


Typhoon Pylons:

IMG_0157a900.JPG


IMG_0153a900.JPG


As you can see there are some major differences between the two pylons in terms of shape and size. I am no expert modeler but modifying the Mosquito pylon to make it look like the Typhoon one would be a near herculean effort in my view.
 
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Thank you for the pictures. You are right saying about the effort when re-shaping of these Mosquito pylons. If I were you I would just copy these proper ones you have for the car door version of the Typhoon. Do you have some of soft plasticine like in these pics below? Oh by the way are these correct pylons the same or there is the left and right one?

10563994-colorful-soft-plasticine-bars-in-pyramid-isolated-over-white-background.jpg


6747plasticine.jpg
 
Wurger,

Pylons are the same shape and size left and right. What are these plastics? never seen them before? Are they plasticine?


ALSO, I am getting logged out of the website every 5 minutes and have to re log in. Another oddity about this site.
 
OK. So my method for a quick making of a copy is ... I take some of the plasticine and crumple it for some time ( how much of plasticine I need depends on dimensions of the piece for copying ). The Plasticine softens with a warm of hands and when it is enough soft I squeeze it into a ball. Then I put the plasticine ball on a flat horizontal surface and flatten with a plastic plate in order to get the flat horizontal top of the plasticine ball. Then I imprint a part ( the pylon e.g.. ) I need to copy in the plasticine trying to put the piece into the plasticine flat. If a detail is of elaborated shape I imprint the right side firstly and then next to the one the left side of it. It is better to put a detail into cold water for a while before imprinting. Having a detail imprinted I bring it out of the plasticine trying to do it gently without damages made to the mould and detail. The cold water should help with it. The next step is to put around the imprinted detail small walls with plasticine.
Finally I use an epoxy for filling of the mould. It is not needed to use a lot of it. It is enough to fill these imprinted holes up to their tops. However moulds with those pieces of more complex shapes are filled with more of the epoxy ( 2-3mm over the top ) It is necessary because of sanding on flat surfaces in order to get a nice fitted two halves of a detail. When the epoxy is fully hardened you may bring out a detail from the plasticine. The plasticine can be used for moulding of the next details.
What kind of a epoxy ( resin ) you may ask ... a two-componets one accessible in almost all supermarkets ( malls ). Just the one thing though .. it should be like a liquid when mixed. These thicker ones can be used too but need to be put into moulds more carefully because of air bubbles.

Feel free to ask if there is someting unclear.

BTW If you start to log in , please mark the small square under the line with your user name with a caption Remember me?. This will prevent you against logging in and out for each five minutes.
 
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Well, I just received the aeromaster decal set Storms in the Sky Part III 48-283 that has markings for Hugh Fraser's Typhoon. I also received from Ultracast the typhoon larger tail planes, 4 blade prop, exhausts and the barracuda main wheels and tail wheel. Just waiting for the Airies cockpit set to show up and some bombs and pylons from Terry and I will be ready to do a build log of it here.
 
Following on from Airframe's posting, Re: "the Hendon Tiffie"... it is indeed a bit of a Christmas tree airframe... "bitsa-this" and "bitsa-that."

I am restoring the starboard electrical services panel for the Jet Age Museum, and albeit the aircraft is a car-door variant, and therefore slightly different; the lack of information on the type is of considerable concern, and most people take the Hendon example as God's Truth.
The Imperial War Museum cockpit section is closer, but even that one varies from type.

Pilot's Notes AP1804A is of little help... the cockpit photos pertain to the early 1A variant only.
The answer is for modellers and instrument panel restorers to be extremely careful in their choice of instruments and fittings! Some later 1Bs had Tempest-type fitments.

The give-away as to cockpit photographs is whether there is a camera gun master switch and two push-buttons on the starboard shelf; and the angle of the camera footage indicator wedge plate.
If the answers are "Yes" and "45 degrees"... then it's a proper car-door, or early 1B bubble-hood Tiffie. If the pic resembles the Hendon Tiffie, then its a "bitsa!"

For Reference; Our electrical services panel pre- restoration...
Shelf view.jpg
 

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