Done : Bf110G-4, G9+AT, of III/NJG1, Gruppe Build.
- Thread starter Airframes
- Start date
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marek
Senior Airman
A greate model is coming with big steps.
When the good medicine is founded out it is a great relief. I know something about it. Glad to here you founed one.
All the best for you Terry!
When the good medicine is founded out it is a great relief. I know something about it. Glad to here you founed one.
All the best for you Terry!
- Thread starter
- #183
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks for the compliments and well wishes, M and Marek.
They did ask if I wanted a walk-on part in the TV commercial, but there was no way I was going to wear that awful, flowery dress!!
They did ask if I wanted a walk-on part in the TV commercial, but there was no way I was going to wear that awful, flowery dress!!
marek
Senior Airman
@ Terry!I was an extra in 'Michael Collins', my mates dad did the crane work on the set. They recreated 1916 Dublin on a lot in the city, then blew the sh*t out of it! It was amazing.
I was a 'dublin youth'
You should have seen the haircut they gave me! Short back sides! I must have ended up on the cutting room floor because I have never seen myself in it. My cousin who was a captain in the army at the time played a british officer and he's quite visible in the opening scenes.
Good stuff Terry! I just read though the whole thread, my eyes are gone! Was wondering what nozzle tip size you used to do the mottle on your bird because its so precise and detailed. I have an aztek airbrush [might buy a new brand haha] with .30 being the smallest and want to do preshade and various planes designs but i'm not too sure of it as the tip clogs a bit. 
- Thread starter
- #187
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Heh! Nice work M! Been an extra a couple of times, yonks ago. Once in 'Get Carter', with Michael Cain, (not a lot of people know that!) and again in 'A Bridge too Far'. The first one you see half my head for about 3 seconds, after a full day's shooting, and in the second, I'm just one of the 'dopes on a rope' parachuting, somewhere in the background! Done a bit of TV work too, mainly survival etc, and did some work on a Bond movie back in '95. Boring as sh*t, but the money can be good!
Anyway, got a bit more done to the '110, as the thought of all those stencil decals to apply to the Hunter was doing my head in!
After much thought, I decided to attach the pylons for the SN2 radar antenna. As I knew that this might be tricky, and the model would need some handling, I thought it easier to do it now, rather than damage any of the underwing parts, such as the drop tanks and undercart doors.
The kit provides parts for the earlier SN2, which had vertical di-poles, whereas Werke Nr 160616 was equipped with the later, SN2B radar, where the di-poles were angled at 45 degrees, as shown in the attached drawings.
The first thing that needed doing was to clean-up the mouldings, to remove the sprue attachement marks, and some fairly prominent moulding seams.
PICTURE 1 shows the untouched antenna on the left, with a 'cleaned' example on the right, the di-pole mounts having been removed for re-positioning later.
PICTURES 2 3 Show the required arrangement.
PICTURE 4 shows the small holes drilled into the otherwise poor mounting points for the antenna pylons. The ends of the latter were modified, by carving, to allow a better fit, and they were then superglued into place, as in
PICTURE 5.
There's still a lot of small parts to attend to, such as the other antennas, mass balnces and canopy, and there'll be some touch-up work to do after this. But so far, it's coming along nicely, and starting to look like a nightfighter.
The final two pics show the state of play to date.
Anyway, got a bit more done to the '110, as the thought of all those stencil decals to apply to the Hunter was doing my head in!
After much thought, I decided to attach the pylons for the SN2 radar antenna. As I knew that this might be tricky, and the model would need some handling, I thought it easier to do it now, rather than damage any of the underwing parts, such as the drop tanks and undercart doors.
The kit provides parts for the earlier SN2, which had vertical di-poles, whereas Werke Nr 160616 was equipped with the later, SN2B radar, where the di-poles were angled at 45 degrees, as shown in the attached drawings.
The first thing that needed doing was to clean-up the mouldings, to remove the sprue attachement marks, and some fairly prominent moulding seams.
PICTURE 1 shows the untouched antenna on the left, with a 'cleaned' example on the right, the di-pole mounts having been removed for re-positioning later.
PICTURES 2 3 Show the required arrangement.
PICTURE 4 shows the small holes drilled into the otherwise poor mounting points for the antenna pylons. The ends of the latter were modified, by carving, to allow a better fit, and they were then superglued into place, as in
PICTURE 5.
There's still a lot of small parts to attend to, such as the other antennas, mass balnces and canopy, and there'll be some touch-up work to do after this. But so far, it's coming along nicely, and starting to look like a nightfighter.
The final two pics show the state of play to date.
Attachments
Heinz
Captain
Looks great Terry!
Camo looks superb with the decals and weathering!
Camo looks superb with the decals and weathering!
Matt308
Glock Perfection
Wow, Airframes. Bloody hell that looks nice!!!
- Thread starter
- #190
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Maglar, Alex and Matt, very much appreciated.
Maglar, I've only had the airbrush a few weeks, and I can't remember the tip size! It's either .30 or .25, I think the latter. Being dual action, it allows precise control, and I have to say, for a 'cheapie', it's very good.
If you are using acrylic paints, they will 'clog' fairly quickly, due to their rapid drying ability. The trick is to keep a paint brush and jar of water handy, and clean out the nozzle frequently during spraying. Also, stop and clean the brush occasionally as you work, if needed. Most of the time, I use enamels, so I don't normally have this problem, but the few times I've used acrylics have taught me what to look out for.
Maglar, I've only had the airbrush a few weeks, and I can't remember the tip size! It's either .30 or .25, I think the latter. Being dual action, it allows precise control, and I have to say, for a 'cheapie', it's very good.
If you are using acrylic paints, they will 'clog' fairly quickly, due to their rapid drying ability. The trick is to keep a paint brush and jar of water handy, and clean out the nozzle frequently during spraying. Also, stop and clean the brush occasionally as you work, if needed. Most of the time, I use enamels, so I don't normally have this problem, but the few times I've used acrylics have taught me what to look out for.
Right, those vallejo airbrush series dry faster than turning on a light switch! I only use acrylic because I love just having to use water and or acrylic cleaner to clean the airbrush or any mess. I used to hate having to run for the thinner when I spilled some and such, plus it makes your head spin after awhile.. When I bought the paints for my new kits today I got a mix of modelmaster / tamiya, no worries since they are about airbrush ready in their little jars. Also the only enamel sold locally is Testors and I swear im done with them! Satin finish and terrible quality, heard humbrol is good though.
- Thread starter
- #192
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Humbrol used to be THE name for enamel paints. Unfortunately, they went through a hard time a few years back, and were bought, along with Airfix who they'd 'owned', by Hornby. I don't know where 'Humbrol' paints are made now, but they are nowhere near as good as they were. I've had some serious problems with recent batches of most colours, although a couple have been OK. These are problems I've never, ever, had before with these paints, and I've been using them for nearly 47 years!
My only acrylic problems are weak potency, watery and such.. So I just let it dry and re-brush it, never had a problem like that with an airbrush though. With enamel and hand painting you see all the strokes and everything while acrylic is a little better at hiding it.
- Thread starter
- #194
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Hmm. I find nearly the opposite. I find Tamiya acrylics bloody awful for hand brushing, and reasonable for spraying, but Vallejo is fantastic for brush and airbrush, although there doesn't appear to be the same latitude and flexibility of use with acrylics for brush painting. If 'laid off' correctly, in general you shouldn't have big problems with streaks or brush marks with enamels though.
Screaming Eagle
Senior Master Sergeant
Awesome Terry!
109ROAMING
2nd Lieutenant
Looking Very good Terry! A highly inspirational build....thinking of me revell 110 Nachjager....
Damn fine work Terry! looks great mate!
lesofprimus
Brigadier General
Really lookin great Terry, she truly stands out as one of the better kits u've ever built here....
- Thread starter
- #200
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks very much guys. One of the better ones Dan? The others must have been ropey then!!!
