Super detailing Guillow's P-51D Mustang

[Skyediamonds]

Good evening gentlemen and fellow guest:

Tonight I am opening a new build thread very similar to previous build threads ( See Guillow's S.E.5 and Guillow's Wright Flyer) in which I take a Guillow's wooden kit and build it beyond the stick-n-tissue format into a more realistic representation of the full sized aircraft. The exception here is that I'll be posting my builds "live" as I progress through the various stages rather than presenting a build thread with the model already completed. Thus, this thread will take several months to see the end result. However, the good news is I'll be open to ideas, suggestions, observations and any comments pertinent to the build itself and to the model. In another words, I would like to see some of our members actively particpate. I've decided to model this "D" Mustang as the later version of Big Beautiful Doll which depicts Col. Landers' plane as it racked up 36 victories. I have already contacted our esteemed fellow member, Mr. Wurger for information on BBD (as I'll abbreviate the name every once in awhile), and asked for his guidance as well as observations.

As of this writing, I have already framed up the wings and fuselage. However, they're not even close to being complete. They are still in the rough framed stage. I also just started on the vertical and horizontal tail feathers last night. They will be fabricated from sheets of solid balsa wood, rather than being framed up.

It's my intentions to model this aircraft in overall natural metal finish. Rather than taking the "usual" route of painting the model silver to represent the metal paneling, I've decided to really try something really different. I decided to use a product called Flite Metal. This product is an actual aluminum foil covering with a sticky adhesive backing. It comes in a roll that is 24" in width (I apologize for using the English measurements) and the length is cut per customer's needs/requirements (usually the minimum is about 10 feet). There are other products such as chrome vinyl that offer similar characteristics and I will gladly be posting the comparison between the two, siting their advantages and disadvantages and my choice for Flite Metal. Chrome vinyl is easily obtained through the Google search on the Internet. If anyone should express an interest in obtaining Flite Metal, I shall be happy to provide all of the relevant information. It is curently in production and the vendor is extremely active and supportive.

I will also be posting dozens of photos of each build stage as I progess along. Because photography in itself can slow down the build, I gave myself a "head start" in building the model and taking pictures through the build before opening up this post. This way, I'm hoping that I can give our fellow members a quick overall view of my concepts and approach to this build.

Some of you may ask "Why did I choose the Mustang?" And, "Why Big Beautiful Doll?" Truth be told, it is for my daughter. She insisted that if I'm to build her a model for her to keep as a family heirloom, she wanted a P-51D Mustang and finished off as BBD. She already has a full sized poster of the cockpit interior of BBD hanging up on the wall in her home. I tried to talk her out of it (Lord knows I tried) but she was adamant. So, without further ado, I'll start the posting tonight.

 

[Skyediamonds]

I thought it best to start this build thread with photos of the full sized Mustang. This particular Mustang is not the original BBD, but the current owner has finished herup as Col. Lander's ship and is the one that I intend to replicate in model form.

 

[Wurger]

It sounds very interesting. Looking forward to the project. Good luck!

 

[Skyediamonds]

Thank you Mr. Wurger. It would not have been as accurate if it were not for your help. To this, I am grateful.

I also decided to offer copies of the instructions that came along with the Guillow's kit to help give everyone a good idea of the type of model format as it was originally intended. For those who reviewed my previous postings of the S.E.5 and Wright Flyer, you can see the traditional concept of the "Stick-and-Tissue" build. With the exception of the Wright Flyer, almost all of the Guillow's models were originally designed for rubber power or use of a small gas engine or electric motor.

As you can see from the last picture, in addition to the tail feathers, the instructions offer tips and suggestions on the methods of covering with tissue (they call it "silkspan" and it's a very good and durable covering).

 

[Wurger]

 

[Skyediamonds]

At this moment, I'd like to set aside the build and honor a true gentleman. His name is Col. Bob Friend. He is the last surviving member of the original Tuskegee pilots. They restored a Mustang in his honor and he was an honored guest at last year's Reno Air Races in Reno, Nevada.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Skyediamonds]

Thank you Mr. Wurger.

 

[Skyediamonds]

As you can see from the picture of Col. Friend's Mustang, it is finished in a high polished aluminum that is far more than any available metallic paints on the market. In order to achieve this effect, I created a faux fuselage or a "proof-of -concept" test article. I made it out of scrap balsa for formers and strips of balsa glued together side-by-side for the exterior skin. I also decided to leave the middle section bare wood to test whether or not I would have to cover the wood grain with filler and primer to prevent the grains from showing through the foil. As test showed later, I can cover the frames without any filler or primer. The foil does a great job of covering over bare balsa wood. This will help make my job easier.

 

[Skyediamonds]

Next, I applied the foil and vinyls in two separate long sections. Boy! They really shine! Looks just like polished aluminum. To achieve the rivet detail, I used what is called a "pounce wheel" that is easily obtained at local arts and supply stores. You can also purchase this tool from MicroMark catalog a special company that makes modeling tools, accessories, and models just for us modelers. If I use the pounce wheel from the backside, I can produce rivets that "pop out." If I use the pounce wheel on the top surface, I can achieve a flush rivet look. Now, you can easily see what I am trying to achieve on the model. For those who wish to tell the difference between the vinyl and Flite Metal: the second picture shows the vinyl on the top with the Flite Metal on the bottom and the third photo shows the Flite Metal to the left side nd the vinyl to the right.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Skyediamonds]

It is now after 1:15 in the morning here Pacific Time and I must rest. However, I will leave you with these two pictures: One is of the real Mustang machine gun bay and the other is the model. I can see how your imagination must be running with the aluminum foil over the wings... Yes. That's exactly what I'm trying to achieve as welll. Let's see if it all works out.

Thank you

 

[Wurger]

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely work so far!

 

[Skyediamonds]

Again, Happy Birthdy Gnomey.

The Guillow's Mustang that i'm super detailing is being advertised on this site.

 

[Skyediamonds]

Gettin(g back to the comparison of the two materials being considered for covering. I decided to cut a strip from each roll. Rather than affixing them to the faux fuselage as previously shown, I decided to allow the strips to hang from my fingers. It is this way, one can easily see the differences between the two mediums as opposed to viewing them on the faux fuselage, where they appear almost identical as riveted strips of polished metal. As the first photo shows, the Flite Metal (or abbreviated as: FM), lliterally curls around my fingers as if it was a true piece of thin aluminum metal, which in essense it is. The second picture shows the vinyl lliterally hanging or drooping off my fingers in a relaxed state, which vinyl as a medium will do. They also have different characteristics in finsl results as well.

 

[Skyediamonds]

When the two mediiums of chrome vinyl and FM were left on the faux fusealge for a short period of time during the warm summer months, the chrome vinyl reacted to the heat. For the purpose of discussion, they were left indoors and the temeratures were a modest 80 F degrees. The chrome vinyl tended to bubble out some of the gasses from the wood grains and sticky backing. The Flite Metal maintained its affixed state and did not react in any which way. The vendor, replied that FM will withstand high temperatures as 350 F degrees outisde at "High Noon." This, was a major factor in determining which medium to use. There are other minor factors that came into play as well and I'll explain them as I go along later on in the build. You can easily see in the first photo that the chrome vinyl has gassed out. The second photo shows both of them side-by-side and FM is still very taut whereas the chrome vinyl just off to the right side of this picture is still bubbling off.

 

[Skyediamonds]

As with my S.E.5 build, comparisons between true outlines of the real aircraft and the model were drawn up. The lengths of the fuselage appeared to match up very well, but the "thickness" for the lack of a better word, were apparent. The model was much slimmer than the true outline of the real aircraft. The enclosed photos shows the differences. The last picture shows how the rear portion of the airscoop curved up much sharper on the model than the true outline. Differences were noted, of course.

 

[Skyediamonds]

Oddlly enought the vertical fin and rudders matched very well and I decided to leave them "as is."

 

[Skyediamonds]

The laying out of the keel to the fuselge commenced. The noted differences in "thickness" of the formers were compensated acccordingly. The formers were then glued onto the first side before flipping over to glue the second half. I should mention here, that the long strip of balsa wood traveling the sides is referred as a "longeron" in full sized aircraft. In this case, it also plays an important role in keeping the formers vertical and the first half of the fuselage true and straight.