vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
Nicely done!
Super Detailing S.E.5 Guillow's model
- Thread starter Skyediamonds
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- Thread starter
- #222
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
Unfortunately, due to the passage of time, some of the more detailed pictures also "walked off the face of the earth" leaving me to once again use descriptive writing. However, like the Vickers machine gun, the basic concept behind the creation of the main breech and barrel remains the same: that is, using plastic sheeting around the balsa body to help make for a smooth finish and also having a plastic tube of the diameter that is approximately close to the desired size of the gun. ,I simply cut the plastic tube and sealed each end with balsa and plastic for the cover. For the front of the gun, I drilled a hole into the front seal and inserted a small plastic rod. From there, I used a slightly larger piece of tubing to fit over the rod to give the front end of the gun its final shape. After assembly of the two separate pieces together, the whole is then painted gloss black. Why gloss? I think it's because I've seen several photos where the gun is painted in gloss black. Perhaps they were restorations and not the authentic gun itself. In any event, I chose the gloss version simply as a matter of personal choice. I enjoy "blinging" as much as possible all of the details to help give as much "eye candy" to the model as possible. I've enclosed two separate photos. The first is of the Vickers gun and its basic assembly prior to gluing the breech and barrel as well as painting. The second photo is of the Lewis gun itself after it was assembled and painted. The circular balsa piece above it, will be the cartridge. Obviously, the Lewis gun did not require any corrugated "cooling" surfaces so the assembly was a bit faster.
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Benevolens Magister
Looking good.
- Thread starter
- #224
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
Prior to making the cartridge drum, I had to fabricate the handle for the pilot to grab onto and hold. The photos showed some variations of this handle. I liked the one which had a wooden veneer to the sides. I think it's because it gave the handle a "Western" style and since I live in the state of Nevada, which is really "out west," it would seem appropriate. The first picture shows the finished handle.
I decided a "reverse" method of first cutting the matching two sides and then cutting the balsa piece to fit. I decided to use plastic on the wooden handle to help give the handle an overall smooth finish, but also because due to its small size, I knew trying to sand the small balsa wood, filling the wood grain, sanding it smooth again, followed by primer and sanding and more sanding, was just impossible. It's far easier and faster to simply let the plastic "do all the work" by providing a smooth surface to begin with.
As you can see from the next two pictures, the handle is really quite small. I then painted it overall gloss black.
How to get that wooden veneer?
I decided a "reverse" method of first cutting the matching two sides and then cutting the balsa piece to fit. I decided to use plastic on the wooden handle to help give the handle an overall smooth finish, but also because due to its small size, I knew trying to sand the small balsa wood, filling the wood grain, sanding it smooth again, followed by primer and sanding and more sanding, was just impossible. It's far easier and faster to simply let the plastic "do all the work" by providing a smooth surface to begin with.
As you can see from the next two pictures, the handle is really quite small. I then painted it overall gloss black.
How to get that wooden veneer?
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- #225
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
This is where common sense and sheer logic goes out the window and only absolute patience and skill would prevail. Yes, I even held my breath while doing this. I knew that the wood veneer requires some kind of wood finished surface that was solid enough to overcome the black paint in the background, yet I did not wish to have it too thick. If I used the same photo-paper of the butcher block counter top for the cockpit interior as I did on the gun, the paper would be too thick for scale. It would look out of place and draw attention to this fact. So, I did the only thing left.
I used a fresh # 11 razor and cut the photo-paper of the wooden butcher block, edge-wise. Meaning, I actually cut the paper in half along its thickness, not its size. I had to practice several times before I finally got the piece I wanted. This picture is obviously posed, but it shows the lengths I went through to achieve the results. I had to hold my breath to avoid shaking the blade and hold the razor absolutely tight as I cut the very thin edge of the paper to get only the top half, which is where the image of the butcher block is on.
Even then, the (now) extra thinned paper still had that "white" paper edge to deal with. I finished off the edges with wood stain using an extra fine paint brush.
The next picture shows the trigger was made from a very small strip of plastic. This was cut to a very thin strip, then curled over a finely pointed needle-nosed pliers and then glued in place. The loose end was the trigger itself and the curled surfaces was the trigger guard. As you can see, the size of the trigger was also a challenge.
I used a fresh # 11 razor and cut the photo-paper of the wooden butcher block, edge-wise. Meaning, I actually cut the paper in half along its thickness, not its size. I had to practice several times before I finally got the piece I wanted. This picture is obviously posed, but it shows the lengths I went through to achieve the results. I had to hold my breath to avoid shaking the blade and hold the razor absolutely tight as I cut the very thin edge of the paper to get only the top half, which is where the image of the butcher block is on.
Even then, the (now) extra thinned paper still had that "white" paper edge to deal with. I finished off the edges with wood stain using an extra fine paint brush.
The next picture shows the trigger was made from a very small strip of plastic. This was cut to a very thin strip, then curled over a finely pointed needle-nosed pliers and then glued in place. The loose end was the trigger itself and the curled surfaces was the trigger guard. As you can see, the size of the trigger was also a challenge.
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- Thread starter
- #226
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
The cartridge was fabricated using circular piece of balsa laminated with two equally sized circular pieces of plastic on both sides. This method again, gave me a smooth surface ready to use without the usual hassles of sanding the balsa wood smooth and so forth. I only had to use a small amount of filler around the sides, like dressing a cake with frosting. Then I sanded the filler smooth the sides.
Next, I cut another thin strip of black electrical tape. Again, this tape becomes very flexible and easy to bend and use when cut into a very thin strip. Like the radiator, I added small strips alternately from one side to the side to help achieve a "balance" such that at the end, I would have everything evenly spaced out.
The last picture shows me trial-fitting the small ring to be used later for the finishing touch on the cartridge. But here, you can easily see how the small strips of tape helped to convey that sense of corrugation we all see on the Lewis gun cartridges. I did not have the materials, the time, or the place to create resin molds. It just didn't make any sense to go to that length of trouble for only one item. If I were to make several of them as in a production line, then perhaps a mold approach would be more feasible. However, in my case, a small size really helped me here as the illusions of the corrugations really played out here.
Next, I cut another thin strip of black electrical tape. Again, this tape becomes very flexible and easy to bend and use when cut into a very thin strip. Like the radiator, I added small strips alternately from one side to the side to help achieve a "balance" such that at the end, I would have everything evenly spaced out.
The last picture shows me trial-fitting the small ring to be used later for the finishing touch on the cartridge. But here, you can easily see how the small strips of tape helped to convey that sense of corrugation we all see on the Lewis gun cartridges. I did not have the materials, the time, or the place to create resin molds. It just didn't make any sense to go to that length of trouble for only one item. If I were to make several of them as in a production line, then perhaps a mold approach would be more feasible. However, in my case, a small size really helped me here as the illusions of the corrugations really played out here.
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- Thread starter
- #227
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
- Thread starter
- #228
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
Viking and Airframes, Thank you gentlemen! The next steps I am about to show I got the ideas from a plastic modeling magazine. it goes to show there is a cross-over of wonderful ideas and techniques from all aspects of modeling.
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- #230
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
When the copper paint dried, I peeled off the mask and then shot a clear coat of paint over the whole cartridge. The clear paint helps to seal in all of the tiny pin holes, small imperfections, and tiny rough surfaces that is almost invisible to the eye. This clear coat sealing will help with the next step.
This step I used simple water colors to help bring out the details. In the plastic modeling world, this is called a "wash." Oftentimes, they will use various artist's oils heavily diluted and thinned out as well as various dark-colored paints. The paints themselves can ber acrylics, enamels, and even water colors. Notice, I used the words "dark colored" and not black. Black is too extreme. These dark colors can range from browns to orange, and even greens, blues, and yellows depending upon where they're applied. When heavily thinned out for washes, either paints or oils can flow easily through all the small cracks, crevices, pin holes and more, highlighting some areas and bringing out the shades and details in other areas. In my case, I wanted to do the latter. That is, to bring out shades and details that were hidden from the copper spray paint.
I simply diluted the water colors with lots of water to where the colors themselves were transparent. I then allowed the dark colors to flow over all over the cartridge and settle. You can use water colors over dried acrylics. Acrylics are water-based paints.
Next, I used a cotton swab diluted in water, to wipe off the excess colors off of the areas I wanted to highlight, and leaving the crevices or corrugations dark to help bring out the details. I repeated this several times slowly building up the details and highlighting areas with each step until I was satisfied with the end results.
I added the ring that I trial-fitted earlier. I purposedly left it unpainted as I wanted to bring out the metal contrast against the background. Next, I cut a thin strip of glossy paper and painted it a light tan color to simulate the leather. I then bent the ends of the thin strip to attach to the ring to simulate the leather strap. Voila' there you have it. A finished drum cartridge to be fitted over a nice machine gun.
This step I used simple water colors to help bring out the details. In the plastic modeling world, this is called a "wash." Oftentimes, they will use various artist's oils heavily diluted and thinned out as well as various dark-colored paints. The paints themselves can ber acrylics, enamels, and even water colors. Notice, I used the words "dark colored" and not black. Black is too extreme. These dark colors can range from browns to orange, and even greens, blues, and yellows depending upon where they're applied. When heavily thinned out for washes, either paints or oils can flow easily through all the small cracks, crevices, pin holes and more, highlighting some areas and bringing out the shades and details in other areas. In my case, I wanted to do the latter. That is, to bring out shades and details that were hidden from the copper spray paint.
I simply diluted the water colors with lots of water to where the colors themselves were transparent. I then allowed the dark colors to flow over all over the cartridge and settle. You can use water colors over dried acrylics. Acrylics are water-based paints.
Next, I used a cotton swab diluted in water, to wipe off the excess colors off of the areas I wanted to highlight, and leaving the crevices or corrugations dark to help bring out the details. I repeated this several times slowly building up the details and highlighting areas with each step until I was satisfied with the end results.
I added the ring that I trial-fitted earlier. I purposedly left it unpainted as I wanted to bring out the metal contrast against the background. Next, I cut a thin strip of glossy paper and painted it a light tan color to simulate the leather. I then bent the ends of the thin strip to attach to the ring to simulate the leather strap. Voila' there you have it. A finished drum cartridge to be fitted over a nice machine gun.
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- Thread starter
- #231
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
Mr. Wurger,
Thank you, sir!
Thank you, sir!
- Thread starter
- #232
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
A very small hardwood dowel was cut and the ends were sanded slightly smaller than the "body" and rounded off. The dowel was then hollowed out with a small pin vise using a tiny drill.
Another glossy piece of paper was cut into a thin strip and painted a light gray color for contrast against the dark black machine gun. This will help bring out the "handle" that otherwise would disappear within the black machine gun and I wanted to highlight as much detailing as possible, since I knew this machine gun would be sitting on the top of the whole model and most likely be one of the first details after the radiator and biplane itself to be noticed.
The last picture shows the final results. Altogether, this machine gun took me about a week in my spare time and efforts.
Another glossy piece of paper was cut into a thin strip and painted a light gray color for contrast against the dark black machine gun. This will help bring out the "handle" that otherwise would disappear within the black machine gun and I wanted to highlight as much detailing as possible, since I knew this machine gun would be sitting on the top of the whole model and most likely be one of the first details after the radiator and biplane itself to be noticed.
The last picture shows the final results. Altogether, this machine gun took me about a week in my spare time and efforts.
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- Thread starter
- #234
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
Next, came the second portion of the two-part assembly. This will be the gun rail. I had to carefully judge how long and high it will be as this will have lasting impact on the placement of the gun.
The first picture shows the top wing devoid of the machine gun. Here, I had to carefully determine how to place the rail, how high should it be mounted and how long. I simply studied all of the available photographs and drawings and basically used proportion as my guide. In another words, in proportion to the size of the wing and gun, the rail should be "this high and this long." I also determined that the rail itself is not consistent. It tapers at the front end.
I (again) using glossy paper as a medium of choice over a strip of balsa wood. In the second picture, shows me using the back end of the # 11 razor to "score" the paper. I used a piece of plastic cut to the same size and tape as the wood to help me with the scoring. This picture is simply posed to show how I did it. The reason why I used plastic is twofold: 1) to help with the straight edged line of the fold itself, and 2) just as importantly, to also allow for me to see through the clear plastic and how to taper the end of the rail. The plastic was pre-cut to reflect this taper.
The next photo shows the other side of this paper and how I wish to fold it. Here, you can also see the strip of wood that will be used as a foundation for the paper.
A ruler was used to help mark a straight line and mark off the rivets. This will ensure that the "rivets" are all in a straight line and are evenly spaced.
The next photo shows the small hammer and semi-dull needle used to tap out the rivets from the backside.
The last photo shows the lines drawn for the tapered end.
The first picture shows the top wing devoid of the machine gun. Here, I had to carefully determine how to place the rail, how high should it be mounted and how long. I simply studied all of the available photographs and drawings and basically used proportion as my guide. In another words, in proportion to the size of the wing and gun, the rail should be "this high and this long." I also determined that the rail itself is not consistent. It tapers at the front end.
I (again) using glossy paper as a medium of choice over a strip of balsa wood. In the second picture, shows me using the back end of the # 11 razor to "score" the paper. I used a piece of plastic cut to the same size and tape as the wood to help me with the scoring. This picture is simply posed to show how I did it. The reason why I used plastic is twofold: 1) to help with the straight edged line of the fold itself, and 2) just as importantly, to also allow for me to see through the clear plastic and how to taper the end of the rail. The plastic was pre-cut to reflect this taper.
The next photo shows the other side of this paper and how I wish to fold it. Here, you can also see the strip of wood that will be used as a foundation for the paper.
A ruler was used to help mark a straight line and mark off the rivets. This will ensure that the "rivets" are all in a straight line and are evenly spaced.
The next photo shows the small hammer and semi-dull needle used to tap out the rivets from the backside.
The last photo shows the lines drawn for the tapered end.
Attachments
- Thread starter
- #235
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
Wurger:
Glad you're enjoying this build thread. Thank you, sir.
Glad you're enjoying this build thread. Thank you, sir.
- Thread starter
- #236
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
The taper was carefully cut away. Then I fitted it to the taped wood. Cut away some more. Then fitted to the wood and so on, until the final cut was complete.
The next photo of this post shows the taper over the wood that is just barely "peeking" out from underneath.
There is another accessory and modeling company for ships and boats called "BlueJacket." I've posted a sample page from their catalog and you can easily see that they have a wealth of small items that can easily be used for aircraft modeling as well. In this case, the terminology is "sheaves." This is their word used to describe a groove small pulley wheel. They offer a variety of sizes. I chose the smallest of the lot for my gun rail. I also chose several others to be used as pulleys for the ailerons and elevators that we will see much later.
The last picture shows the finished rail. I also shows how I had to take into account for the pulley wheel and fold a separate but smaller piece of paper over such that it will hold the wheel in place with a pin through the "axle" and then glue the assembly into place. Careful studying of photos shows this. I must have studied these photos until my eyes blurred.
The next photo of this post shows the taper over the wood that is just barely "peeking" out from underneath.
There is another accessory and modeling company for ships and boats called "BlueJacket." I've posted a sample page from their catalog and you can easily see that they have a wealth of small items that can easily be used for aircraft modeling as well. In this case, the terminology is "sheaves." This is their word used to describe a groove small pulley wheel. They offer a variety of sizes. I chose the smallest of the lot for my gun rail. I also chose several others to be used as pulleys for the ailerons and elevators that we will see much later.
The last picture shows the finished rail. I also shows how I had to take into account for the pulley wheel and fold a separate but smaller piece of paper over such that it will hold the wheel in place with a pin through the "axle" and then glue the assembly into place. Careful studying of photos shows this. I must have studied these photos until my eyes blurred.
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Looks great so far!
- Thread starter
- #238
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
special ed
1st Sergeant
- 4,917
- May 13, 2018
It looks like a full scale shrunk down twelve times. Just great.
- Thread starter
- #240
Skyediamonds
Staff Sergeant
- 1,087
- May 26, 2018
Now comes the tricky part. I have to ensure that another rail will curve over the top wing and fit within the small guides of the Aldis gun sight mounts and at the same time, fit onto the rail mounted on the top wing. Here, I used a piece of scrap paper cut to sized and shape of the curvature of my intended rail.
The next picture shows the cut out from a plastic credit card. I love to cut out credit cards! They're good for something, eh?
The last picture shows the credit card cutout being compared for accuracy to the model.
The next picture shows the cut out from a plastic credit card. I love to cut out credit cards! They're good for something, eh?
The last picture shows the credit card cutout being compared for accuracy to the model.
